Native Plant Resources

Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden  1500 College Ave, Claremont 909-625-8767

84 acres of native plants. Spring and Fall plant sales feature RSABG hybrids and selections. Extensive educational programs.

Native Plant Garden Hotline at at RSA

Ph: (909)624-0838 or email: rsabg.hortinfo@cgu.edu.

Theodore Payne Foundation

10459 Tuxford St., Sun Valley 818-768 –1802 

Education, Seed, Nursery and bookstore. The only LA area nursery devoted to the retail customer, with over 500 species. Sale days feature many activities. Educational workshops. Knowledgeable staff. Open Tue-Sat 8:30-4:30, reduced hours in summer. Spring garden tour.

Tree of Life Nursery 33201 Ortega Highway, San Juan Capistrano (949) 728-0685

Oldest native nursery in Southern California. Website has much useful plant info. Limited Retail days and hours. Their catalog is used as a reference by designers and architects.

CNPS Local Chapters  is the website for the LA Chapter.  Many field trips. Fall plant sale. Meetings, which feature informative lectures and discussions, and field trips are open to non-members.

Nursery website with detailed information on hundreds of plants. Includes www.mynativeplants.com, a feature that allows searches by zipcode, watering preference, shade and drainage. Online ordering of many species. Nurseries in Escondido and Santa Margarita.

Books

Gardening With California Native Plants,Bornstein, Carol et al ©2005 Cachuma Press, Of all the books here, this is the one that illustrates a drought tolerant beautiful garden. Not only does it show the plants in their glory, but there are suggestions on how to use them with authority. The lists at the back of the book are worth the price of admission alone. "The Bible," says a local native plant expert.





 

Gardening with a Wild Heart:  Restoring California's Native Landscapes, Lowry,Judith Larner ©2007, Philosophy of native gardening, with much specific wildflower and plant info. Judith Larner Lowry is the founder and proprietor of Larner Seeds - one of California's best seed resources as well as a good source for books on propagation of these plants. Well written and inspiring.














Landscape Plants for California Gardens, Perry, Robert C. ©2010 Perry, an instructor at Cal Poly Pomona, has written several expensive tombs on water saving plants in our climate.  His books are rich with color photographs, hence the hefty price tag of $78.75.  If you want to work with this palette, you will eventually need this book.

The Landscaping Revolution: Garden With Mother Nature Not Against Her, Wasowski and Wasowski, ©2002, More philosophy of native gardening.  




















The Forgotten Pollinators, Buchmann, Stephen ©1997; with Gary Paul Nabham, a favorite writer for both Orchid and I, this book fills the gap where most environmental books fail:  the pollinators we all depend on for our plants to fruit and bear seeds.  Without them, there are only wind pollinated plants and life gets boring with just grains to eat!  Good and important reading.

Designing California Native Gardens: The Plant Community Approach to Artful, Ecological Gardens, Keator, Glenn ©2007, UC Press, Glenn is a well-established writer on California native plants and a respected authority. This is his latest offering containing some 300 photographs, easily understood and used; a practical book you’ll return to again and again.

david for Orchid

Yet Another Bibliography

The following books address permaculture and the natural farming methods of Fukuoka.  Though starting from opposite philosophies (permaculture is enthralled with the brilliance of human logic, Fukuoka tried to distance himself from human logic and rely on nature to show the way), both came to strikingly similar results. 

Gaia's Garden, A Guide to Home-scale Permaculture, Hemenway, Toby, © 2000, Chelsea Green Publishing Probably no finer introductory book on permaculture is available. More easily digested than the others in this list, this is still a comprehensive guide and is easily one of the more readable books on permaculture.

Introduction to Permaculture, Mollison, Bill © 1991 Tagari Publications IF you can find it for less than $149 (its current asking price for a used copy on Amazon) this is a lovely book that lives up to its name, an introduction to permaculture. Mollison, along with Holmgren, founded the concepts of permaculture. Because it is so old, it is somewhat dated, but Mollison writes in a way that is readable, digestible and it is well illustrated with drawings. Check it out from the library?

Permaculture, A Designers' Manual, Mollison, Bill © 1988 Tagari Publications, Dense. Out of Print. The most exhaustive text on the subject ever written. Will likely never be attempted again. If you can find it, and if permaculture, is your bag: Indispensable. (I borrowed my copy.) But indispensable as historical data – we know a lot more now than Mollison knew then. This book works best as background – to REALLY use permaculture, look at other books.

Permaculture, Principles and Pathways Beyond Sustainability, Holmgren, David © 2002 A more cerebral take on the permaculture 'revolution' who looks beyond the horticulture and agriculture beginnings of permaculture with the intent of applying the concepts to other aspects of human society. Probably your book if you think you'd like to design a permaculture career.

The Basics of Permaculture Design, Mars, Ross © 2005 Chelsea Green Publishing This is a dense manual. The upside is that it contains all the basic design ideas and principles and is wonderfully illustrated. The down side is that there is more data on one page than in a chapter in other books. This density makes for tough reading, but that isn't all bad. It is the most current in this list.

Fukuoka Farming Bibliography

One Straw Revolution, An Introduction to Natural Farming, Fukuoka, Masanobu ©2009, a reissue of his 1978 classic, Fukuoka's first book on his extensive work in Japan. Decidedly with a Japanese bent (his main crop is rice and barley), he still presents a lovely description of his farming efforts that began as a reaction to the Western idea of agriculture and more that began to infiltrate Japanese society in the 1930's. His work continued until his death in 2008 (at 95).  His grain raising techniques became THE grain raising techniques in permaculture.

The Natural Way of Farming: The Theory and Practice of Green Philosophy, Fukuoka, Masanobu © 1985 Also out of print. And expensive. ($61, used on Amazon) Can be downloaded as a PDF, I had success at this site, but I do not warranty it to be 100% safe from commercial interests. 

The Road Back to Nature, Fukuoka, Masanobu © 1988 Out of print, but you can find copies reasonably priced on eBay, used copies are almost $70 from Amazon. From the back cover: Fukuoka's reflections on his trips to Europe and to America, his sense of shock at seeing the destruction wreaked in the name of agriculture. A collection of his lectures, articles and essays which outline his thinking on nature, God and man and his underlying optimism that good sense can still prevail and we can still turn it all around. This is a collection of articles, lectures and essays recording his impressions as he travels the world talking about his revolutionary 'do-nothing' agricultural methods. There is a spiritual side to a lot of his thoughts and an optimism that a change in lifestyles and farming methods could yet heal the Earth's wounds.

Fundamental Realities, an article by Hazelip, Emilia was found at the Fukuoka Farming Website – but as of this writing that website is no longer in existence.  However, You Tube has several videos with Hazelip describing how she has adapted Fukuoka's principles to a Western market garden.

While permaculture has played a role in my thinking about gardening, Fukuoka has spoken to my heart and the Hazelip videos have informed a lot of my decisions in the past four or five years.  The video quality is not the best, but it and three others on You Tube are worth the effort to find and watch; I think you will find them inspiring and very enlightening. 

david

Field Trips: Saturday, May 22, 11 a.m. and 1p.m.

The second field trip for the Greener Gardens sustainability class will be this Saturday, May 22. We will convene at 11:00 a.m. at the home/urban farm of classmate Dave Keitel, then move on to the Casting Pond at Arroyo Seco at 1:00 p.m. (map links and directions below).

Dave will show you what he has done over the past 1-2 years on a relatively small and challenging site, including:

400+ sf of planted edibles (winter and summer crops + herbs)

Multiple system composting operation

20+ fruit trees

3 laying hens

Lawn and ivy replaced with drought-tolerant landscaping

A real world lab to consider options/issues for additional sustainable features (eg: rainwater recovery system)

A few logistics and practicalities:

1) Bring sensible shoes and sun protection (part of Dave's site has many steps)

2) Parking is relatively easy - anywhere on the sides of Micheltorena St. or Lucile Ave. that do not have "No Parking Anytime" signs)

3) Carpool if you can!

3) Call Orchid or Dave if lost or late. Dave's home: 323/669-0704 Dave's cell: 213/247-4065

4) Please RSVP to Dave at davekeitel@sbcglobal.net so he can better plan to provide some light refreshments (beverages and garden fresh salad)

Mapquest for Dave's house:

http://www.mapquest.com/mq/10-3JutD8u7on8QtcCL

http://www.mapquest.com/mq/10-p87T

Some driving tips for Dave's house:

If you are approaching from the west side or the valley, exit the 101 (Hollywood) freeway at Silver Lake Blvd. - which is just a few miles north of downtown.

Take Silver Lake Blvd. north to Parkman, where you'll make a left at the signal. Take Parkman one block to Sunset Blvd, where you'll take another left.

Take Sunset west to Micheltorena, where you'll make a right at the signal. Take Micheltorena all the way up and just over the hill to 1975, which is on the corner of Lucile Ave.

If you are approaching from the north/northeast (eg: Pasadena), exit the 5 (Golden State) freeway at Los Feliz Blvd. - which is roughly between Glendale and Dodger Stadium. Take Los Feliz Blvd. west less than a mile to Griffith Park Blvd., where you will make a left at the signal. Take Griffith Park Blvd. about a mile to Angus, which is just past the signal at Hyperion Ave. Make a left on Angus and go up the hill to Micheltorena (your first stop sign). Make a right on Micheltorena and travel about a mile to 1975, which is at the corner of Lucile Ave.

If you have additional or specific questions, please call Dave at the numbers above.

We will leave Dave's at approximately 12:30, to meet at the Casting Pond at 1 p.m. A map showing the casting pond is here:
http://ww2.cityofpasadena.net/publicworks/pnr/arroyoseco/pdfFiles/websizedAStrail_map.pdf

It is just north of the Lower Arroyo Seco Main Entrance, and can be reached by exiting the 110 N at Orange Grove and going north (left), turning left at California Blvd and right at California Ter., then left at Norwood. Turn right once you are down in the park. There is parking near the casting pond.

If you will be coming from the 134/ 210, exit the 134 at Orange Grove, turn right on California Blvd., then follow directions above.

NEW: Map from Dave's to Arroyo Seco S. Entrance (Use City of Pasadena Map as well).
http://www.mapquest.com/mq/7-K6*i3e5bnVmZ

Orchid

Habitat Information

The National Wildlife Foundation has a page on how to certify a habitat with the Foundation, that has lots of information about creating habitats and how to certify yours.

Orchid

You Got Bugs?

From an absolutely delightful book, Trowel and Error, by Sharon Lovejoy, these suggestions are helpful substitutes for more violent means of pest control.  This is only a small sampling of good things I've learned from Sharon's book, the only thing I have against it is that she is as clever as any one I know and got published first!

Some common materials that can do double duty as non-toxic pesticides:

• 
  
  
  uncoated aspirin to fight mildew, black spot and more. Dissolved in water.
• 
  
  
  baking soda (really useful!) prevents fungus spores from invading plants.
• 
  
  
  boric acid or borax wipes out ants, roaches and more.
• 
  
  
  canola oil works to smother insects and as a surfactant^* but any vegetable oil that isn’t too heavy will work – I like Trader Joe’s grape seed oil
• 
  
  chili powder is used as a pesticide and a repellant
• 
  
  cinnamon powder is useful as a an anti-fungal and anti-ant
• 
  
  corn gluten meal inhibits seed germination (or at least it has in studies)
• 
  
  Epsom salts provide a shot of magnesium and help promote growth of flowers and foliage
• 
  
  essential oils, when mixed with water, help defer feeding and work to eliminate pests
• 
  
  fish emulsion & kelp wonderful organic fertilizers that promote healthy plants
• 
  
  flour, white but not self-rising, can be sprinkled on plants plagued by grasshoppers
• 
  
  honey is a sure-fire lure for ants
• 
  
  isopropyl rubbing alcohol, the 70% stuff, desiccates and destroys insects – if a bit tedious to apply
• 
  
  molasses, good ol’ blackstrap or horticultural grade, jumpstarts microbial action and feeds beneficial insects – can be used to attract harmful insects into traps
• 
  
  petroleum jelly can be used as a sticky barrier (around a tree trunk for example) to prevent access for undesirable insects
• 
  
  liquid soap – NOT detergent! (almost all “dish soaps” today are really dish “detergents” and they are more harmful to plants and not as effective as insecticides – you will have to seek out Dr. Bronner’s or any other pure castile soap) can be used as a surfactant or as the active ingredient against many pests, insects and fungi alike; liquid soap is the basis of many home-made pesticides because it works to allow other ingredients to blend together (emulsify). You can have a bucket of soapy water in the garden in which to dump insects and help them die in the cleanest of ways.
• 
  
  Tabasco sauce can be used as a pesticide and repellent (I like to tell about the time Grandpa used a syringe to inject Tabasco sauce into the watermelon closest to the road, it works to repel even human pests!)
• 
  
  vegetable or mineral oil destroys insects and can also double as a barrier
• 
  
  vinegar, either apple or white, buy whatever is less expensive, fights fungus gnats, can be used to kill some weeds and destroys pests – I use a solution 50% vinegar with water to kill ants when they invade my home or the greenhouse, as they often do.
• 
  
  white glue is very useful to seal pruning cuts – especially roses against the rose borer which is a significant pest around here

GENERAL NOTES ON HOME-MADE PESTICIDE APPLICATION (also valuable for commercial sprays)

• 
  
  Test your spray first on a small portion of the plant before applying it to the entire plant. I mean, it should go without saying that you’d rather knock the pests off and not kill the plant.
• 
  
  Always, always, always use soap not detergent – you may not know the difference but your plants will.
• 
  
  Spray early in the morning, on a foggy day or, if you’re not an early riser, later in the day. (Early morning IS the best, but if you, like me, just can’t seem to get around early enough, late evening might be your only opportunity.) Do not spray when the temperature is at, or soon will be at, 85 or higher.
• 
  
  Wear rubber gloves when spraying – especially those sprays containing peppers, alcohol, citrus concentrates, mint oils or any other material that could irritate skin.
• 
  
  Do not spray when the wind will not allow you to control the destination of your spray.
• 
  
  Thoroughly examine the plant to be sprayed right before spraying it, specifically looking for beneficial insects or their eggs.
• 
  
  Most mixtures will require consistent agitation to keep the ingredients evenly mixed, so shake as you go. So to speak.
• 
  
  Make sure all of your solutions get on to the leaf undersides as well as the tops.

TABASCO TOODLE-LOO

1 t Tabasco sauce

*1 t liquid soap

Shake mixture well and decant into sprayer.

Tabasco, straight, can be used to prevent rabbits and other omnivores from chowing down on tender shoots. Test to make sure the tender shoots won’t themselves be
“prevented.”

BASIL SUN TEA

1 hand full fresh basil leaves and
stems

1 large glass jar – at least ½
gallon – with water

Put the basil in the jar of water and set in the sun for a few days; strain out solids and store (out of the sun) in a capped container until you need it. When using it, decant into a sprayer and add *1teaspoon liquid soap and shake well before using. A poor use for basil in my book but offered in the name of science here.

RED PEPPER WRECKER

2 T red pepper

6 drops of liquid soap

1 gallon water

Allow the mixture to brew overnight, or should we say 'ferment?'  
Stir thoroughly before spraying. Repeat about weekly to protect the Crucifers – cabbage, kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower - from destructive critters.

BUTTERMILK SHAKE

¼ cup buttermilk

2 cups wheat flour

2 ½ gallons water

Shake the ingredients all together thoroughly and spray on plants infested with spider mites.

GARLIC SOUP

2 garlic cloves

1 quart water

*1 t liquid soap

For plants with fungal or bacterial disease and rash outbreaks of vampires in your garden, puree the garlic in a blender on high for a minute. Slowly add the water and continue blending for about six more minutes. Strain, into a storage container adding the soap (adding the soap while blending is NOT recommended) and cover tightly.

To use, mix one part garlic soup concoction with ten parts water in a sprayer. I have read that scientists have discovered that garlic leaves can be used in place of the garlic bulbs and do the same duty; so you can use two handfuls of leaves and keep your bulbs for eating.  Now THAT is useful information!

HEALTHY HOLLYHOCK SPRAY

1 ½ t baking soda

1 T canola or other light oil

½ t liquid soap

½ cup white vinegar

1 gallon water

While this says “hollyhock” it is useful to spray on any rust-prone plant – and in our area that includes roses. Blend the ingredients and decant into a sprayer. Shake thoroughly before and during applications, applying weekly to the whole leaf on susceptible plants. If you have diseased foliage, remove it and send it away – do not compost unless your are certain your compost is hot enough to kill the spores.

TAKE TWO ASPIRINS AND DON’T CALL ME

2 uncoated aspirins dissolved in one quart of water can be used as a foliar spray to deal with fungus infections, which include black spot, mildew and rust – all popular in our climate. 

CORNELL’S
FORMULA

1 T canola, mineral or other light oil

1 t baking soda

1 gallon water

Cornell published this as a remedy for fungal blights on tomatoes and potatoes. Shake thoroughly before using.

ROSE TONIC

2 t baking soda

2 quarts water

½ t liquid soap

Keep handy in sprayer and shake before using – this is especially useful with powdery mildew or black spot – two fungal infections almost all roses get in Southern California.

*a surfactant is a material used in a spray that helps “hold” the material to the plant, allowing it to spread over the surface.

david

Sustainable Water Strategies Resource List

Mulch Suppliers

Soil and Sod, Pacoima, 818-686-6445

Foothill Soils, Sylmar, 661-254-0867

Easiest gutter diverter for homeowner rainwater catchment applications

Tanks

Choose tanks that ship from CA. Also sells first flush systems. Etanks is another option.

Native plants that can be used as lawn:

Carex praegracilis: Meadow Sedge, more runner, turf-forming

Carex pansa: Dune Sedge, possibly sturdier/less water use (according to Greenlee Nursery)

I use both interchangeably, retail source is Tree Of Life Nursery, plug 6-12” centers. Also available from Greenlee Nursery.

Festuca rubra: Red Fescue, the lumpy lawn, requires more water than above, but easily available.

Bouteloua gracilis: Blue gramma grass is also very lumpy, looks like a bluer Bermuda, great for desert/hi-elevation applications.

Books and other resources:

Eric D. Stein, Shawna Dark et al, Historical Wetlands of the San Gabriel River

Art Ludwig,

You can buy books, plumbing supplies, etc. from this website. Reading the articles on the website is an education in water storage and reuse. The only source of salt-free dish and laundry that I am aware of.

Ludwig, The New Create an Oasis with Grey Water, Oasis Design

Ludwig, Builder's Grey Water Guide, Oasis Design

Ludwig, Water Storage: Tanks, Cisterns, Aquifers, and Ponds for Domestic Supply, Fire and Emergency Use--Includes How to Make Ferrocement Water Tanks, Oasis Design

Brad Lancaster,

Another excellent resource for water use.

Lancaster, Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands Vol 1 & 2, Rainsource Press

Vol. 1 is overview, Vol. 2 is earthworks

Mollison, Mia Slay, Permaculture: A Designers' Manual, Tagari Publications

Hemenway, Gaia’s Garden, Chelsea Green

Orchid

garden/garden Field Trip This Saturday

garden/garden is a demonstration landscape project of the City of Santa Monica and the Metropolitan Water District at Santa Monica College, compares two landscape strategies, sustainable vs. traditional "mow and blow," side-by-side. garden/garden is located at 1724 & 1718 Pearl St., Santa Monica, CA 90405, this links to a Google map for your convenience.  Both Orchid and I will have our phones on that morning - if you are having trouble finding us, give a call. (Our numbers are on the syllabus...) 

The field trip is from 9 to 12.  Do go to the website and look at some of the comparisons.  If we get done early, perhaps we can get a cup of coffee together nearby and look over some of the data available from their website.

david