For more information please check out this website
http://labelgmos.org/
Monday, October 24, 2011
Sunday, October 23, 2011
Dress Warm Today
The weather for the garden shows a high of 67° - overcast. It will be a good day to work hard, unfortunately, we've scheduled a couple of guest lecturers so we will be doing more sitting than working.
david
Monday, September 26, 2011
Some Suggested Varieties for the Fall/Winter Garden
Artichokes (a perennial)
Green
Globe –
one of the more productive varieties, Green Globe is usually one of
the varieties available in the farmers' markets and groceries.
Violetto
– is not so often seen in the market. Not quite as productive but
still quite acceptable. Like the name implies, it has a good splash
of purple in it. Each leaf tip possesses its very own, very sharp
spine which makes eating them an exercise in alertness. They are
worth it.
Beets
Burpee’s
Golden
– there was a time when 'Burpee' was synonymous with seeds for the
home gardener. While this is no longer true, way back there in that
faraway time, Burpee bred a lot of wonderful crops that we still find
useful today. This beet has lower germination rates than other
beets, but boy oh boy: They are worth it! From the mere fact that
they don't bleed red beet juice all over your fingers (and clothes!),
Golden beets are very sweet. Sauté in orange juice. Pickle.
Chiogga
– another heirloom. Very productive and sweet, not as sweet as the
Golden, but running a close second. One of these beets, cut in half
before being cooked, reveals alternating rings of a light red and
white. They keep those alternating rings when roasted. A lovely
side dish!
Broccoli
Nutribud
(58
days) DeCicco
(48 to 85 days?) and Waltham
(85 days) are the heirloom varieties available today. Of these two,
Nutribud is the best for container gardening but performs well in the
garden too. The days listed behind each variety are the 'days to
harvest' from the catalogs. This refers to an approximate day by
which you may expect to harvest the broccoli heads from the day you
set them into the ground (transplanted out). It is an estimate only
– weather conditions and other factors speed it up or slow it down,
but in these four varieties above you have the idea that DeCicco
might come in first and Waltham last, all other things being equal.
Broccoli is a wonderful home garden crop that keeps on giving over a
long time with side shoots. For that alone, I prefer broccoli to the
other cole crops and I give it more space accordingly.
Brussels Sprouts
Long
Island Improved – 80 - 115
days. Brussels Sprouts are a largish plant but have the added
advantage of providing a rather continuous harvest over many weeks.
They also can be a pain if they get aphids or whitefly because they
are very difficult to police and really tough to clean up to eat. But
like broccoli, it does produce over a long season. If you are
willing to fight off the aphids, it does make for some good eating!
Roast 'em on the grill...
Cabbage
Danish
Ballhead – A late season
cabbage – not so good for containers, but a reliable producer for
those who wish to preserve some of their cabbage. Note that all
these cabbages are not savoyed cabbages. Those crinkled leaves of
the savoyed variety hold dirt and also make very opportune homes for
slugs – and one gets a lot of slugs in long season cabbage anyway.
Early
Jersey Wakefield –
gets you a cabbage in about 70 days and performs acceptably in
containers.
Mammoth
Red–
You'll get a 7 pound head in about 90 days, so it's not fast, but a
few plants ought to keep you happy in red cabbage for a long time.
Carrot
There
are many different colors of carrots to think about growing –
Pinetree Garden Seeds sells a carrot mix that includes a number of
different varieties and colors! Most of these colors are old
varieties that were shelved when popular opinion decided all carrots
should be orange.
St.
Valery – old time variety
that is delicious main crop carrot. The only reason to grow this and
not Scarlet Nantes is
a personal choice – they are both good and produce well.
Danvers
– sometimes called 'Danvers
Half Long' is the selection for those who plan on juicing most of
their carrots.
Paris
Market – is the one to grow
in pots. It's a little half-dollar sized ball of a carrot. You'll
also see it called Parris Round.
Cauliflower
Early
Snowball
– is an open-pollinated and is the earliest and tastiest of all the
cauliflowers available. Other varieties are out there that are tasty
but I think this one takes less work and compares well with the
others. I am not a huge cauliflower eater – Mark Twain said,
“Cauliflower is cabbage that's gone to college,” and for my
money, I get more from cabbage or from broccoli.
Celery/Celeriac
Large
Prague Celeriac – I'm not
even going to list celery. In our climate, I don't think it's
possible to get a sweet celery that isn't as tough as a sisal rope!
Celeriac, on the other hand, has that delicious celery taste, is easy
to grow and works as well as or better than celery in soups and other
dishes. You can't fill it with peanut butter or cream cheese like
you can celery, but how healthy is that anyway? And if that's the
only advantage, stick with celeriac!
Chard
Five
Color Silverbeet
– All the chards taste about the same to me, so I like to plant
this chard to get all the different colors – some of them are quite
wild. (Australians call chard “silverbeet” which is a nod to the
fact that chard and beets are the same exact species of plant.)
Dependable and beautiful, you can't beat this one in the garden or
the kitchen. But all the chards are good producers and keep giving
into the summer in our climate. Start finding recipes for it,
you'll need them!
Cilantro
Slo-Bolt
– Holds slightly better than
older varieties in heat (cilantro does not like to grow in heat) and
the plants are a little larger for a better and longer harvest. Try
growing it in some afternoon shade with extra water. Successive
sowings help somewhat, but it's near impossible to have cilantro when
you have tomatoes. I know, it's sad.
Fava Beans
Windsor
– Though not the only fava out there, this one is probably the
premier fava bean for a home garden. Not for those of us with very
little garden space, a typical fava plant can get to be four and half
feet tall or more. One plant, happily tended, will provide enough
fava beans for two folks unless they really intend to chow down on
favas! (Fresh grated parmesan cheese on fresh raw fava bean seeds
marks you as a dedicated fava eater and you will need more than one
plant!)
Florence Fennel (bulbing)
Fino
– Usually used raw or cooked in Italian cuisine for its sweet,
anise-like flavor, don't let it go to seed or you'll have this all
over your garden as well.
Garlic
This
is a long season crop, plant in Fall for next Summer's harvest.
Chesnok
Red
– The three varieties listed here are all heirloom varieties. This
variety doesn't store so well, but the taste it holds even after
cooking is worth the trade off!
Music
– A slightly
spicy, incredibly flavorful garlic, this is one of the most popular
types around.
Spanish
Roja
– I have grown this hard neck garlic for years – one of the
finest flavored garlics I know. Not just hotter, the subtle tones
that weave through the taste allows this garlic to compare to the
common garlic in the supermarket equal in flavor as a fine Cabernet
compared to a 'box of wine.'
Kale
Dinosaur
–
Also
called Tuscan Black Palm or Lacinato. A unique kale
with very large, rounded, well filled, meaty leaves. Plants are
large, hardy, and vigorous, and the flavor, if you like it is 'bold'
and if you don't like it, it's 'overwhelming.'
Nero di Toscano – A three
feet tall plant with dark, meaty, puckered leaves, the color of a
blue spruce. The striking ornamental leaves have a fine flavor
harvested young and cooked simply in olive oil.
Leeks
King
Richard –
This leek grows nicely in our winter and quickly makes a decently
edible leek in something like three months. To get a longer white
part of the root, bring up the soil around the base of the plant –
if you do, you will be rewarded with more usable root.
Lettuce
Many
more varieties than you can shake a stick at – or grow a mix!
There are many different colors and types, get as many as you have
room for! I usually can't keep myself to less than 10 varieties at a
time! Almost all of them are open-pollinated varieties and all are a
gift from God!
Onions
Like garlic, these are long season
plants. Look for “short-day” varieties, though most catalogs
don't specify long or short day varieties so much these days.
Italian
Red Torpedo
– Peaceful Valley Farm Supply has these as 'sets;' young plants to
set out. This is my very favorite onion. Onions are slow by seed
but I've had wonderful success and may offer my own seedlings for
sale this year. This is simply the best tasting onion you can get –
on the grill, to die for! You might grow others that keep better in
storage as well, but don't pass on these!
Parsley
Italian
Flat Leaf – A brighter, more
intense flavor, though you will find the curly leaved varieties just
as easy to grow in Los Angeles. The flat leaf is easier to dry for
summer use.
Peas
Super
Sugar Snap – I admit that
I've mostly given up on peas. They take lot of space and don't
exactly over-produce, they get mildew and croak early and I'd rather
grow another row of fava beans which are much more productive. Eat
the whole pea with these and skip the shelling.
Potatoes
Yukon
Gold
– A ton of varieties are available, Peaceful Valley Farm Supply
will have seed potatoes available in mid-October; try purple and red
potatoes – they are less than super performers this close to the
ocean, but oh how yummy!
Radishes
French
Breakfast –
The standard radish for dependable crops. All radishes are easy to
grow and are very quick to harvest – usually around 20-25 days.
Shallots
Bonilla
– Onions are a hassle (and don't really cost that much in the
market), shallots are easy to grow and replace the expensive shallots
one would need to buy at the store. This hybrid shallot is quick and
easy from seed. I got a remarkably good crop with little effort in
my first year to grow them -even though I got them in rather late!
Dried, they make a good long term storage item.
Spinach
America
– A semi-savoyed spinach.
Most of the spinach we remember from way back were all savoyed
spinaches, but savoyed (wrinkled), holds dirt better than smooth; I'm
all for leaving the savoyed spinaches behind.
Bloomsdale
Long-Standing – this was such
a great improvement in old spinach varieties for the precise reason
that 'long-standing' was not a quality of spinach – and this
variety will still bolt at the drop of a hat and carries a hat in
case one needs to be dropped. One hot day and you can loose the
whole crop. Spinach is one crop I can take or leave.
Turnips
Purple
Top White Globe
– Will get to be the size of a small foreign country if you let
them, but they are better when small. This is THE turnip we think of
when we picture a turnip in our minds.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Class Assignment For Week Two
1. Write me an email from the email account where you prefer to receive my emails.
2. Bring a one pint, clean jar with a lid to the next class meeting.
Thank you,
david
Class Syllabus for Modern Backyard Food Production
UPDATED 25 September 2011
Course Number: Biology X 489.6
Instructor: David King
Redacted....
There are no
prerequisites for this course, although some experience with
gardening will prove useful.
All classes meet at
The Learning Garden on the Venice High School campus where it can be
hot and cold by turns – but reliably MUCH COOLER than other
parts of Los Angeles. For your own comfort, please bring a sweater
or coat to every class meeting. We will have access to a classroom
for really rainy days; class will meet regardless of the weather.
Expect to get wet or cold as we will be outside whenever possible.
The
production, packaging, and transportation of food are large
contributors to our global carbon emissions. Throughout the Los
Angeles Basin, food gardens have sprung up to produce local healthy
and nutritious fruits and vegetables while contributing energy and
financial savings in difficult economic times. Using the history of
growing food in the city in times of need as a template, this course
explores how homegrown food can reduce your food budget and address
environmental concerns. Participants each have a small plot for
growing food where they can experiment with new ideas and enjoy their
harvest. Topics include fruit trees, vegetables, and berries that do
well in our climate as well as often overlooked food-producing
perennials and how to grow food in modern city lots where the "back
forty" describes square feet and not acres.
Textbooks Required: |
|
Title Sunset Western Garden Book
Author Brenzel,
Kathleen Norris (Editor)
Edition Feb. 2007
Publisher Sunset
Books
ISBN 978-0376039170 |
Title: Growing Food In Southern California
Author King, David Edition October 2011 Publisher Wobbly Press ISBN Not yet available - but by class meeting two! Price unknown this second... |
Textbooks, Recommended: |
|
Title The Kitchen Garden
Author Thompson,
Sylvia
Edition First
Publisher Bantam
Books
ISBN 0-553-08138-1
*(She has a
companion cookbook that is worth investigation too!)
|
Title Heirloom Vegetable Gardening
Author Weaver,
William Woys
Edition First
Publisher Henry
Holt
ISBN 0-8050-4025-0
Impossible to find
– out of print
|
Title Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs: An
Integrated Pest Management Guide
Author Dreistadt,
Steve H.
Edition 2nd
Publisher Univ of
California Agriculture & Natural Resources
ISBN
978-1879906617
|
Title The Resilient Gardener
Author Deppe, Carol
Edition First
Publisher
Chelsea
GreenISBN 978-1603580311 |
There will be no
assigned reading from these books, except Growing Food In Southern
California. The rest of the literature as references, will prove
invaluable to any serious student in this field. There will be
bibliographies describing other books as the quarter progresses, I am
a ferocious reader and not at all shy about suggesting books I like.
Course Schedule:
DATE
|
TOPIC |
25
September*
|
Introduction/History
of Food Gardening/Introduction to Soils
|
02
October
|
Tools/Garden Tour/
Plot Assignment
|
09
October
|
Timing and Design
|
16
October
|
Soil
Preparation/Composting
|
23
October
|
Sustainability and
Food Issues in Modern America
|
30
October
|
Supplies/Sources/Annuals
|
06
November
|
Planting/Companions/Crop
Rotation in a Small Garden
|
13
November
|
Perennials/Bulbs as
a part of your food supply
|
20
November
|
Home orchard/Vines
|
27
November
|
Planning for
Continuous Harvests
|
(Syllabus may be
changed as needed to reflect reality.)
* Please note the
first class meeting will be truncated to two hours. The instructor
has been chosen for an award and we need to end before three in order
for him to get there! We will choose to extend two classes for one
hour or four classes for half
an hour in order to make up instructional time. The class will
choose the manner in which we will make up the two hours.
Point Assignment Structure
- Class participation20Garden Journal301 page write-up*10Planting Project40TOTAL100
* A sample one-page
write up is the final page of this syllabus.
Office hours are by
appointment only – please call or email me. I am willing to meet
with you; I want you to learn and not struggle. Please do not
hesitate to call me, rather than try to talk to me in class when I
can't really give you undivided attention. Extra points are
available if you need to earn more credit.
Every week, Pamela
Nears and or myself will prepare some seasonal food to eat. There
are no places to buy food while in class and we are here for four
hours. Students are encouraged to bring in food to share with the
class at all meetings. The last meeting we will have a potluck where
we will all share food cooked – local and fresh! (That's the
point, right?)
The Learning
Garden is open daily, 10 to 5:00 PM, every day but Monday and
Tuesday. You are welcome to come here and work on your plot or just
come and hang out. It's always best to call ahead to make sure I'm
here as sometimes I have errands or chances off campus to earn money.
Criteria
for your garden plot grade:
- You should experiment and try something you have never done – explore!
- Your plot and adjacent pathways should be cleared of weeds.
- Your plot and adjacent pathways should be well mulched.
- Your plot should be attractive and be growing some food.
- Your journal should indicate you learned something from the plot.
The
person who starts from seed vs. bringing in already growing plants,
will have plants not nearly as far along as the others – but still
stands to make a better grade if they have experimented with growing
from seed – I am more interested that you LEARN in this class –
just doing what you already have done doesn't teach you anything. We
are all gardeners here, if we don't have patience yet, we soon will.
Cultivate patience with your plants while in The Learning Garden. At
the very least, indulge me until I have assigned your grade.
All
handouts (including this syllabus) will be available on a blog site:
In
fact, it will have your assignment for next week. Please do this
before you come to class.
BEETS Beta vulgaris
Botanical
Information:
Chenopodiaceae,
Goosefoot family
4
to 8” tall
Biennial
|
Growing
Season:
Spring,
Fall and Winter
|
Seed
to Harvest:
8
weeks or more
|
|
Spacing:
3” on a side
|
Seeds
store: ~4
|
Choice
Varieties: Chioggia, Burpee's Golden,
Cotyledons:
Description:
The sweet roots of beets are
often over- looked because
of their 'earthy' taste. The problem with most beets on
dinner tables these days is that they've been out of
the ground for a very long time – the earthiness
overtakes the sweetness. These two beets, the Italian Chioggia and
the Golden Beet from W. Atlee Burpee Co. breeding program in the late
1800's, are among the sweetest vegetables in any garden!
Starting
the seeds: Direct sow in the
garden, a short row every week or so all through the cool season
Growing:
Keep the moisture as even as possible. Mulch the beets as soon as
possible – don't cover their leaves, but bring the compost as close
to the plants as you can without covering the leaves. Cut off the
leaves of any that are too close together – throw the baby leaves
in salads. Do try to give them enough space to make an edible root,
an inch or so for those who want baby beets, two or more for larger
roots.
Harvesting:
Pull roots as you need them. Beets do not have to be pulled all at
once and will hold in the garden for a few weeks – longer if it's
cool out.
Preparation
and Using: Beet greens can be
used just the same as chard – they are, in fact, the same species,
one bred for a root and the other for its leaves. They taste pretty
much the same and can be cooked the same or used raw in salads.
Today,
most folks don't realize that American sugar was beet sugar until the
mid 1900's when we switched to 'pure cane sugar.' The roots, though,
should be just par-boiled enough to get the skins to slip off. Slice
them into convenient slices and sauté in orange juice until slightly
al denté. This is a wonderfully sweet side dish. Cut red beets
into heart shapes before sautéing and serve on Valentine's Day or
another significant holiday for your love.
Problems:
Not much in our climate, although snails will eat the baby
leaves as they emerge.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Quote I Promised All At the Potluck
A garden, where one may enter in and forget the whole world, cannot be made in a week, nor a month nor year; it must be planned for, waited for, and loved into being.
Friday, August 12, 2011
Field Trip to John T. Lyle Center, Saturday August 13th
View Larger Map
Our last class field trip is this Saturday, 9:30 AM, at the John T. Lyle Center for Regenerative Studies, 4105 West University Drive, Pomona CA 91768, phone: 909.869.5155. This is an inspiring site tying a lot of what we have been talking about all quarter into one stupendous array of buildings, technologies, gardens and design features, pointing to the way to a manner of sustainable living that can be replicated far and wide. I think this is an exceptional venue for our class to meet and hope you will all make it.
I'll have my cell phone if you need help getting to the site.
david
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