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Sunday, October 13, 2013

Soil Lecture Notes

We know more about the movement of celestial bodies than about the soil underfoot. Leonardo da Vinci

Some of you will have questions about your own situation – and that’s how it should be. Many of these questions will be excellent for demonstrating a concept or principle to the class, however, some of you live in simply impossible conditions that conform to no known laws of man and what you need is not an answer in a class room setting but a consultation with someone first hand with your situation as the sole focus – or perhaps a miracle, I don’t know – in those cases, I will defer your question and ask you approach me out of the classroom setting in order to answer you completely. Let’s be fair to your fellow students, this is their time too.

In teaching soils through the years, I have found that we will move in and out of three different scientific discipline: physics, chemistry and biology. We can only talk about one subject at a time, because that is how we learn, but I want to stress to you from the very beginning that these are interconnected in a very intricate dance. Whatever you do to one will affect the other two as sure as cutting up beets will give you red fingers. Remember that and you will go a long way towards mastering the soils you garden with.

Air and water share spaces in the soil. After a rain, an event that has happened here once in a while, as much as 100% of the soil pore space may be filled with water; this same pore space may be 100% filled with air in the event of an extended drought – in which case, all the plants in that soil would be dead. So this percentage allotted to water and air is always in flux.

Approximately half of the volume of soil is pore space and can be taken up with water or air depending on the current weather conditions.

Except for a precious small number of you, most of you will garden in soils that have 5% organic matter. Maybe less. These figures represent an ‘average’ soil. There are variations from place to place, but this representation is close enough for an average number through out.

Soil Formation


Soil forms over thousands of years and is an ongoing process. Soils in California are relatively young soils and haven’t, for the most part, developed any great depth.

The following factors inform the process:
  1. Climate – including temperature and rainfall
  2. Organisms – from the itty bitty (microscopic) to the biggies (macroscopic)
  3. Topography – (the book calls relief) – land surface
  4. Parent material – the original rock
  5. Time – the factor that weathers us all.

Climate


Soil forms from the parent material. Climate participates in this process in many guises:
Wind
Rainfall
Freezing
A mild climate forms soil more slowly than a non-forgiving climate



Organisms


Organisms from lichen growing on a rock to a tree that sends its root hairs down into crevices of the rock and fissure it.

Topography


Soil forms more easily on a level surface. Look at the sheer face of a cliff and you’ll see the extreme proof of what I’m saying.

Parent Material


Granite becomes soil less rapidly than sandstone.

Time


Because time ages everything.

Soil Composition


Sand/Silt/Clay – the physical sizes
Sand – from 2mm to 5 hundredths of a mm
Silt – from 5 hundredths of a mm to 2 thousandths of a mm
Clay – smaller than 2 thousandths of a mm


Characteristics of Soil Components


Property/Behavior
Sand
Silt
Clay
Water holding
Low
Medium +
High
Aeration
Good
Medium
Poor
Drainage rate
High
Medium
Slow/Very slow
Soil organic matter
Low
Medium +
High
Decomposition of organic matter
Rapid
Medium
Slow
Speed of warming
Rapid
Medium
Slow
Compactability
Low
Medium
High
Storage of nutrients
Low
Medium
High
Resistance to pH change
Low
Medium
High

Notes on Clay Soil


Clay particles, though tiny, have a much larger surface area – see the chart on page 32. How does this happen?
  1. More small particles can fit into the same area.
  2. The shape of clay particles.
This could be illustrated by coffee beans, ground and whole – if I could think of a container to show this. I.e. a test tube.



Soil Texture


Is determined through the proportion of these differing components found in a given soil.

Ref. Chart on 33
An ideal soil is a mix of all these different components. While it is possible to have a soil that is composed of one or the other component, the likelihood is that it will be a combination of all three. The proportion of one to the next determines how you call your soil.

Do the texture triangle procedure

Organic Matter


The end process of compost is: humus

Humus is a complex organic substance resulting from the breakdown of plant material in a process called humification. This process can occur naturally in soil, or in the production of compost. Humus is extremely important to the fertility of soils in both a physical and chemical sense (see below). Physically it helps the soil retain moisture and encourages the formation of good soil structure. Chemically, it has many active molecules that can bind to plant nutrients, making them more available. It is difficult to define humus in precise terms because it is a highly complex substance, the full nature of which is still not fully understood. Physically humus can be differentiated from organic matter in that the latter is rough looking material, with coarse plant remains still visible, while once fully humified it become more uniform in appearance (a dark, spongy, jelly-like substance) and unstructured in structure; which is to say, it has no determinate shape, structure or character, it is not square, round or triangular.

Plant remains (including those that have passed through an animal and are excreted as manure) contain organic compounds: sugars, starches, proteins, carbohydrates and organic acids. The process of organic matter decay in the soil begins with the decomposition of sugars and starches from carbohydrates which break down easily as detritivores initially invade the dead plant, whilst the remaining cellulose breaks down more slowly. Proteins decompose into amino acids at a rate depending on Carbon: Nitrogen ratios. The humus that is the end product of this process is a mixture of compounds and complex life chemicals of plant, animal or microbial origin which has many functions and benefits in the soil as outlined below;

The process that converts raw organic matter to the relatively stable substance that is humus feeds the soil population of micro-organisms and other creatures which helps in maintaining high and healthy levels of soil life.

Effective and stable humus are further sources of nutrients to microbes, the former providing a readily available supply whilst the latter acts as a more long term storage reservoir.

Humification of dead plant material causes complex organic compounds to break down into simpler forms which are then made available to growing plants for uptake through their root systems.

Humus can hold the equivalent of 80-90% of its weight in moisture, thus increases the soil's capacity to withstand drought conditions.

The biochemical structure of humus enables it to moderate- or buffer- excessive acid or alkaline soil conditions.

During the humification process microbes secrete sticky gums- these contribute to the structure of the soil by holding particles together, allowing greater aeration of the soil. Toxic substances such as heavy metals, as well as excess nutrients, can be bound to the complex organic molecules of humus and prevented from entering the wider ecosystem.
The dark color of humus (usually black or dark brown) helps to warm up cold soils in the spring.

Humus which is also capable of further decomposition is referred to as effective or active humus. It is principally derived from sugars, starches and proteins and consists of simple organic acids. It is an excellent source of plant nutrients, but of little value regarding long term soil structure and tilth. Stable humus consisting of humic acids on the other hand, are so highly insoluble (or tightly bound to clay particles that they cannot be penetrated by microbes) that they are greatly resistant to further decomposition. They add few readily available nutrients to the soil, but play an essential part in providing it's physical structure. Some very stable humus complexes have survived for thousands of years.

Humus should not be thought of as 'dead'- rather it is the 'raw matter' of life- the transition stage between one life form and another. It is a part of a constant process of change and organic cycling, thus must be constantly replenished- for when we are removing prunings and crops for the kitchen we are depriving nature's cycle of potential humus. This is why we need to substitute compost and other sources of organic matter to maintain the fertility of our productive land.

Organic matter placed on the soil is called: mulch.

Organic matter dug into the soil is called amendment.

Some of either can be called humus, but not all.

Organic matter in the soil mitigates any negatives of that soil:

Too much clay is opened up by adding OM.

Too much sand is cohered by adding OM.

Micro and macro organisms live on OM.

There are several different schools of thought on how to get OM in to and used by the soil: from double digging, to using a tiller to sheet composting.

Soil Water


Nutrients enter a plant via soil solution.

Water coheres to itself (describe the miniscus).

Roots take up water one molecule at a time. Water molecules cohere throughout the plant – form the water column. That water molecule pulled into the plant root will pull along one behind it and one behind it.

Discuss water pulled across a moist soil and watering away from the plant’s base. Water not making across differing soil types.


    Each shovel of soil holds more living things than all the human beings ever born.







Nutrients


Nutrients Available (via atmosphere or water)

Carbon
Hydrogen
Oxygen

Primary Nutrients

Nitrogen
Potassium
Phosphorus

Secondary Nutrients

Calcium
Magnesium
Sulfur

Micronutrients


Boron
Chlorine
Copper
Iron
Manganese
Molybdenum
Nickel
Zinc


Symptoms of deficiency of N vs. Fe


PH chart on p. 54 and the differences of pH on nutrient uptake…

Fertilizers


NPK – a ‘complete’ fertilizer and what do the numbers mean..

Nitrogen; Phosphorous; Potassium

The difference between fertilizers and amendment.

Discuss lead uptake in soils…



Bibliography

Hillel, D. J. 1992, Out of the Earth: Civilization and the Life of the Soil, Reprint Edition, Berkeley, CA; University of California Press

Logsdon, Gene, 1975; The Gardener’s Guide to Better Soil, Emmaus, PN; Rodale Press

Gershuny, Grace, 1986; The Soul of Soil; A Guide to Ecological Soil Management, 2nd Edition, St. Johnsbury, VT; Gaia Services

Kohnke, Helmut, 1995; Soil Science Simplified, 4th Edition, Prospect Heights, IL Waveland Press



Sunday, October 6, 2013

Cool and Warm Season Varietal Suggestions

Suggestions for The Cool Season:

Artichokes (a perennial)
Beets
Burpee’s Golden, Chioggia, Detroit Dark Red, Detroit White,
Broccoli
Nutribud, Waltham. Calabrese, DeCicco 
Brussel Sprouts
Long Island (sometimes "Improved" is added) 
Cabbage (including Oriental cabbage-like greens)
Point One, Early Jersey Wakefield, Copenhagen Market,
Carrots
Dragon, St. Valery, Paris Market, Scarlet Nantes,
Cauliflower – there are purple ones too!
Early Snowball
Chard
Argentata, Five Color Silverbeet,
Fava Beans
Windsor; Aprovecho (sometimes appended with “Select”)
Florence Fennel (bulbing)
Romy, Zefa Fino.
Garlic (this is a long season crop, plant in Fall harvest next Summer)
Kale
Dinosaur (also called 'Lacinata'), Redbor,
Kohlrabi
Leeks
Carina, King Richard
Lettuce
more varieties than you can shake a stick at – or grow a mix!
Onions (also a long season growing; find “short-day” varieties like Italian Torpedo)
Other leafy salad things
Parsley
Peas
Tall Telephone Pole, Dwarf Gray Sugar,
Potatoes
All-Blue, Caribe, Yukon Gold,
Radishes
French Breakfast, Fluo, Easter Egg, Purple Plum, Watermelon
Shallots
Spinach
Bloomsdales’ Long Standing, America
Turnips
DeMilan, Purple Top White Globe

Include all perennial herbs and perennial flowers. In addition, try some fun annuals like calendulas, larkspur, poppies (bread, California or Iceland types), sweet peas, and venidium. Make room for cilantro! Lots of cilantro!!

Suggestions for The Warm Season:

Basil
Lettuce Leaf, Genovese,
Beans - drying
Black Turtle, Calypso, Cherokee Trail of Tears, Hidatsa, Hutterite, Cannelini,
Beans – lima
Christmas,
Beans- snap
Roc d’Or, Romano, Royal Burgundy, Kentucky Wonder, Blue Lake
Sweet Corn
Golden Bantam, Country Gentleman,
Popcorn
Strawberry
Cucumbers
Mideast Prolific, Japanese, Armenian,
Eggplant
Asian Bride, Rosa Bianca, Dusky
Melons
Charantais, Jenny Lind,
Okra
Peppers (Sweet)
Ancho, Corno di Toro, Healthy, Marconi,
Peppers (Hot)
Aji Crystal, Fish (mildly hot), Early Jalapeno,
Pumpkins
Cornfield, Lumina,
Squash (Summer)
Black Beauty, Yellow Crookneck
Squash (Winter)
Acorn, Marina de Chioggia, Potimarron, Queensland Blue, Kaboucha,
Tomatoes
Brandywine, San Marzano, Stupice, Sweet 100’s, Rutgers and thousands others!
Tomatillo
Green Husk, Purple di Milpa,


Plant from seed or buy transplants at a nursery of fun warm-season annual flowers like marigolds, cleome (watch the stickers!), cosmos, sunflowers and zinnias. These warm season flowers make cheerful bouquets. You can also grow everlasting flowers like statice and gomphrena. The widest selection of flowers and vegetables is available to those who start their own from seed, especially if one orders from the internet.   

What To Do and When To Do It: October

NB:  We spoke of saving the seeds of the squashes we ate today.  Once I got home, and put my attention on it, I realized saving the seeds would probably be worthless - make sure I explain this to you at the next class.... 


In all the books from back east and England, you'll find fall as a season of 'going to rest,' 'putting the garden to bed' and other allusions to 'sleep' and restoration. It is not true for in the Mediterranean Climate! We are in our other Spring and this Spring is really closer to the Spring that other parts of the world experience. 

 This is our shot at carrots, peas, and other cool season plants. We either have all our space filled with plants, or we've just got a part planted and big plans (dreams) for the rest. So the Winter garden is in full swing. Later this month, if I have grown any green manure cover crops I will cut them down, leaving the plant material in place and cover with a thick layer of mulch. I would like to allow this to “mellow” (meaning I want this material to begin breaking down into nutrients the plants can use) for about 2 weeks or more before placing the next crop in.

I tried to plant one chard plant because I only need one to provide me with enough chard for all my needs, but there are so many colors to choose from, I feel a need to grow at least three: yellow, red and the orange really knocks socks off. These plants provide continuous chard over a long season, sometimes even 'over-summering,' obviating the need for succession planting. Almost everything else though, benefits by being sowed at intervals throughout the season, a process called 'succession sowing' or 'succession planting.'

A person plants a garden to get to eat the very freshest of food – you don't pick your veggies and put them in the fridge to 'age' before you eat them – well, at least, that isn't the intent. So, to the degree possible, only plant enough of what can be eaten in a reasonable amount of time. As a single person, I have found that a twelve inch row for most things is the perfect size to grow enough to supply fresh carrots, beets, parsnips, cutting lettuces, for any given time. A typical planting schedule for me might look like this (the words in parenthesis name the varieties I like):

Week 1 – carrots (St. Valery)
Week 7 - lettuce (Yugoslavian Red)
Week 2 – beets (Golden)
Week 8 – carrots (Scarlet Nantes)
Week 3 – parsnips (Hollow Crown)
Week 9 – beets (Red Ball)
Week 4 – carrots (Dragon)
Week 10 – spinach (America)
Week 5 – beets (Chioggia)
Week 11 – turnips (Purple Globe)
Week 6 – turnips (DeMilano)
Week 12 – beets (Albino)

Quickly you see that, though I do eat parsnips and turnips, I don't eat nearly as many of them as I do carrots or beets. Your situation might be different in that you could care less at all about ANY parsnips, but spinach is near and dear to your heart so you would have spinach in the rotation much more than I do.

Another way to do the same thing, for a larger family, is to plant three different things per week – carrots, beets and spinach in week one; turnips, lettuce and parsnips in week two; carrots, beets and parsnips in week three. Or spinach planted in one row every week all cool season long. Tailor the program to your needs! You might also find that you need longer rows – I wouldn't imagine that an 18” row would suffice for a family of four! Play around with the scheduling and the row length and the mix of plants you grow until you find what your family needs. At which point, of course,their needs will change, but you'll have a lot more data with which to figure out the new schedule.

In our smaller gardens there is no room for the proverbial 50' row of carrots which means succession planting of a given vegetable is one of the staple strategies for your daily grub. Another good point about putting in many smaller plantings of crops is the ability to harvest these vegetables at a smaller size, which is just the ticket for a garden in containers. Don’t get suckered into the “bigger is better” routine. A huge cauliflower might serve as a great subject in a “look what I grew” photo contest, but the cauliflower you pick at half the size will be the one your tastebuds will reverently remember.

A mark of the very good gardener is one who has his/her succession sowing down to such a science that allows them to place fresh vegetables on the table without lag time or a concentration of over-abundance that fluctuate to nothing to eat for a few weeks in between. Learning how to do this well has been the work of a lifetime for many and is still a moving target. But at least I know what I’m shooting for... and now you do too.

Direct sowing of seeds gets far too much mystical billing. It’s easy. The hard part, in our busy world, is staying disciplined enough to keep them moist. Remember, the seed wants desperately to grow, that is its “job.” If you provide enough water for the seed to break the seed coat, you will soon see a little pair of leaves above the soil. These are called cotyledons and, if there are two of them, you have what is commonly referred to as a 'dicot' (“di” meaning two), horticultural shortcut word for dicotyledon. There is only one other kind of flowering plant we would be concerned with in a vegetable garden and that has only a single seed leaf and is called a 'monocot' (one-leaf). Monocots, meaning 'monocotyledon,' are all the grasses, which includes grains like corn, wheat, rice and barley. And a lot of your weeds!

Take note of all the little cotyledons of the plants you grow and soon you will be able to tell them from the weeds. This is somewhat important. If you can rid yourself of weeds before they get really big, you have a much easier job of it; if you rid yourself of all the wrong plants because you mistook the lettuce for dandelions, you'll be a very disappointed and frustrated gardener! I have done this, I am not too proud to say. Learn them quickly to forestall the sadness of hoeing up your own plants.

Composting is one of the more essential parts of gardening. Gardening is a life cycle and composting is that part of the cycle that returns nutrients and fertility to the soil. In our culture, we don't like the smell or the thought of decomposition, yet a knowing gardener loves the smell of rich compost; that ever so slightly 'sweet' smell, incidentally, is from actinomycetes, a fungus that is in the same group of organisms as penicillin.

Somehow, fall always reminds me of composting probably because I grew up in those colder climes where fall signals the oncoming winter and so marked the end of the growing season. And that leads to thoughts of composting. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

You can get absolutely nuts trying to build a scientific compost pile, but let me offer that I don't do all that. Decomposition happens. Simply leave some veggies in your fridge too long and tell me they did not begin to decompose. And you didn't have even think about carbon to nitrogen rations (c:n). You do want to understand the process – especially if you don't have the space to leave something sit for 9 months, which is what I tend to do – to get usable compost in less time than it takes to grow a decent cabbage.

Remember you have 'browns' and 'greens,' names that are somewhat misleading. 'Browns' refers to carbon material which is mostly, or usually, brown. This is dried leaves or woody pieces. 'Greens' are those materials full of nitrogen – usually represented by grass clippings, but all of your table scraps are nitrogen sources too and they too are classed as 'greens' regardless of their color. While we can specify the ideal carbon to nitrogen ratio, achieving it is always a meandering attempt to meet a moving and approximate target. Believe me, you'll never have composting materials in the right amounts to achieve an ideal c:n ratio, which is considered to be 25-30 parts per brown to 1 part of green. So, add all the green you have and scrounge around to dig up enough brown to make it work. You can add newsprint or cardboard to the pile to bring up the carbon level ('brown') if you have those around, Mix well and water – keep moist. Make a pile that is at least three feet high by three feet long by three feet wide; this is the minimum size to create a working compost pile. Keep moist. Turn the parts that are inside outside and the parts that are outside inside. Keep moist. Not soggy, but moist. In about 9 weeks of warm weather, you'll be able to use fresh compost. Sift out the big honking pieces and return them to the pile (they will help get the next pile off to a better start) and build it again.

Honestly? I usually dig a trench about one foot across and two feet deep and as long as it needs to be to handle what I have to compost. I pick a part of the garden I won't use for a few months and add the compostable materials, covering with soil as I go. I add to the trench each day I have more to compost. Eventually I'll simply plant right into that soil, starting in the oldest part of the compost ditch. No big deal and it works without a lot of reading. Or thinking. I did this when I had a small garden and kept working compost into the soil in this pattern. On the Plus side, it's not a rodent attractor and it's no muss, no fuss. It's perfect for a single or two person household that doesn't produce a lot of compost. It would also work as an overflow method for folks using worm bins as their # 1 composting method.

You can find the composting technique that thrills you. The important point is that none of these rich materials, food or garden waste, ends up in a land fill. All of the plant wastes from the kitchen and table are the best components for a rich garden and they are free! The benefits of composting for your garden and keeping valuable material out of the landfill are a double whammy of 'why this is important!' You don’t need to worry about doing it perfectly... everything rots eventually.

If you are building a compost pile, you don't need to buy a black plastic container or any other kind of device. The black plastic composters were probably designed back east and made black to absorb more heat; we don't need it here, having plenty of heat (usually) to go around. A simple thee feet by three feet by three feet pile will do. One thing to be careful about is to keep your kitchen scraps covered with some 'carbon' kind of material or you may attract rodents. Just the simple precaution of burying food scraps under a decent layer of dried leaves will help prevent a mouse problem.

A smelly compost pile has too much water. Hold off watering for a few days, work in some dry carbon material without more wet and soon it'll be OK.

Rodale's book on composting is listed in the notes section. Get it, it's a great resource.

For apartment dwellers, condo owners and others with no easy access to land, vermicomposting is the answer you are looking for! And you didn't even know you had the question! It's easy, the result can be used on plants in pots and your garbage need never grace the entrance of a landfill ever again!
You will need
  • 10 gallon bin or 20 gallon bin
  • 1 lb or so of worms (you can start with fewer, the population will expand to account for what you feed them)
  • Cardboard or newsprint
  • Kitchen waste
Most home stores sell two storage bins that work very well for vermicomposting.  The smaller bin is a 10 gallon container by Rubbermaid called Roughneck Storage Bin #2214-08. It’s dimensions are 9” x  21” x 15” , comes with a lid and is available in various colors.  This size works well for a family of two. 

A worm bin can be made of wood, but plastic seems to work better longer because it won't rot. Your bin must be tightly covered – worms cannot live in light and you don't want them to escape! Punch or drill holes around the top third of the vertical walls to allow air to circulate – punching them with a nail is best because any larger of a hole will be an escape hatch for the explorers in your worm population. You should do the same thing with the lid. Oxygen in the bin will allow the breakdown of materials to proceed aerobically, which means it won't stink and your worms won't suffocate.

Wet a sheet of cardboard or a section of newsprint – soak thoroughly and wring out to where it is as moist of a well wrung sponge. Worms will use this as bedding, and eventually you'll need to replace it
as time goes by.

Red wigglers will reprocess kitchen waste such as: vegetables, fruits, eggshells, teabags, paper coffee filters, shredded paper towels, and coffee grounds. They particularly like pumpkin, watermelon and cantaloupe. Avoid citrus fruits because they are too acidic for them. If you pamper your worms by cutting food scraps into small pieces, the worms can finish them off that much faster. I am not, however in the business of making life wonderful for a bunch of worms – I throw my stuff in whole and they take care of it sooner or later. Burying the food scraps into the bedding will help you avoid fruit flies and adding meat or fish to the bin is not advised for many reasons.

Feed the worms your scraps as you have them available -ideally, no less than twice a wee – however, I have gone on vacation for a week and fed my worms nothing in that time and did not come back to a hell hole of a worm bin. Don't stay up nights worrying about them. These worms prefer a pH of something close to 7 and the temperature needs to be between 50 and 84 F. Don't let the bin dry out – keep it moist like the compost pile.

Harvesting the vermicompost can be done several ways, but the way that is easiest and therefore my choice is called 'side-harvesting.' Feed the worms on only one side of the bin for a few weeks which will cause the worms to migrate to that side. You can then begin to harvest the worm compost from that unoccupied side of the bin where you will eventually, once you've finished harvesting (over a few weeks), begin to add fresh bedding on that side causing them to migrate to the new bedding and allowing you to harvest from the second side.

You can make a it lot more complicated than this, but you have better things to worry about, yes?

In planting seeds, please note that root crops are never planted in containers to be transplanted later. There is a really good reason for this: they do NOT transplant well. Onions, and onion family members are the exception. Carrots and parsnips abhor being transplanted and beets and turnips suffer so much shock it is not worth the trouble.

While I often start lettuce in six packs in a sheltered location, it can sown in the soil directly as well. I like to do both, when a plant will let me do both because they each have advantages and drawbacks. Plants that are transplanted will suffer some shock in the transplant and that will slow them down a bit. However, plants grown directly in the garden are often subjected to harsher conditions that can overwhelm a small plant; a hard rain, pests that consume the whole plant while it's small. If you can, start plants both ways to maximize your chance a good harvest. Fava beans, garbanzo beans, lentils and peas can also be grown either in containers or directly sown.

Slower growing small plants, though, really do benefit from growing in a sheltered location. In this group, I put broccoli, kale, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. These are also plants that one should set in the ground lower than they were in the original container, so transplanting them makes great sense.

This is a busy month – and the more you do early, the happier you will be! As the month rolls along, sunset gets earlier towards an unreasonable hour and you'll regret the missing outdoor light.


Start These In Containers
Start These In The Ground
Move to the Ground from Containers
More of the cabbage family!
Fava beans
Beets
Carrots
Cabbage family members from early September
Lettuce
Fava beans
Fava beans

Garlic
Leeks

Lettuce
Onions

Other green leafy vegetables


Turnips

Refer to the text for exact dates.

Winter Squash With Pecans And Bleu Cheese


• 4-1/2 pounds winter squash
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 cup pecans
• 1 cups crumbled Roquefort or other bleu cheese

Heat the oven to 425°F. Halve the squash, leaving the skin on, and scoop out the seeds, then cut into 1-inch cubes; you don't need to be precise, just keep the pieces uniformly bite sized or so.

Throw into the oven or, in warm Southern California weather, on a grill until tender.

Toss the hot squash into a bowl and scatter the pecans throughout, crumbling the cheese over all and toss together.

This can be a wonderful side or you can get more involved and create a main course dish from it.



Sunday, September 29, 2013

Lecture 1 Outline


  1. Call Roll – why take this class?
  2. Syllabus
    2.1. Books
    2.2. Meeting dates/make ups/late to class
    2.3. neighborliness vs individualism
    2.4. Grading - cooperation
    2.5. Sign the release!
    2.6. Greener Gardens on Facebook
    2.7.
  3. Parking
  4. Inclement weather
  5. The Garden will provide
    space, water, watering hose, shovels, forks, hand tools, compost and wood chips, some plants for cheap, some potting soil,
  6. You will provide
    plate, eating utensil, drinking glass, warm clothing, your favorite tool, something to take notes on/with, fertilizer – if you think you need it,
  7. 12 points
  8. Serve pesto with pasta

  1. GARDEN & FACILITIES TOUR

2013 Modern Backyard Food Production Syllabus


Course Number: Biology X 489.6  

Instructor: David King

310.722.3656


There are no prerequisites for this course, although some experience with gardening will prove useful.

All classes meet at The Learning Garden on the Venice High School campus where it can be hot and cold by turns – but reliably MUCH COOLER than other parts of Los Angeles. For your own comfort, please bring a sweater or coat to every class meeting. We will have access to a classroom for really rainy days; class will meet regardless of the weather. Expect to get wet or cold as we will be outside whenever possible.

The production, packaging, and transportation of food are large contributors to our global carbon emissions. Throughout the Los Angeles Basin, food gardens have sprung up to produce local healthy and nutritious fruits and vegetables while contributing energy and financial savings in difficult economic times. Using the history of growing food in the city in times of need as a template, this course explores how homegrown food can reduce your food budget and address environmental concerns. Participants each have a small plot for growing food where they can experiment with new ideas and enjoy their harvest. Topics include fruit trees, vegetables, and berries that do well in our climate as well as often overlooked food-producing perennials and how to grow food in modern city lots where the "back forty" describes square feet and not acres.

Textbooks Required:

Title Sunset Western Garden Book
Author Brenzel, Kathleen Norris (Editor)
Edition Feb. 2007
Publisher Sunset Books
ISBN 978-0376039170

There will be no assigned reading from the book, but it really is essential if you are gardening in Southern California. The most recent edition is not really necessary, it does have more data in it and with each edition, Sunset pays more respect to food gardening.

This will be supplemented by liberal postings on my Garden Notes blog, http://lagardennotes.blogspot.com/ . I hope to post most of the material in the days prior to the class when it will be used.

Textbooks, Recommended:

Title The Kitchen Garden
Author Thompson, Sylvia
Edition First
Publisher Bantam Books
ISBN 0-553-08138-1
*(She has a companion cookbook that is worth investigation too!)
Title Heirloom Vegetable Gardening
Author Weaver, William Woys
Edition First
Publisher Henry Holt
ISBN 0-8050-4025-0
Impossible to find – out of print
Title Pests of the Garden and Small Farm
Author Flint, Mary Louise
Edition 2nd
Publisher Univ of California Agriculture & Natural Resources
ISBN 978- 0520218108
Title The Resilient Gardener


Author Deppe, Carol
Edition First
Publisher Chelsea Green
ISBN 978-1603580311

There will be no assigned reading from these books. The rest of the literature, as references, will prove invaluable to any serious student in this field. There will be bibliographies describing other books as the quarter progresses, I am a ferocious reader and not at all shy about suggesting books I like.

Course Schedule:

DATE
TOPIC
29 September
Introduction/12 Points to a Better Garden/Garden Tour
06 October
Plot Assignment/Seed Starting/SLOLA/
13 October
Timing and Design/Tools/Intro to SoilsVarietals
20 October
Planting/Seed Starting in Containers/Sheet composting
27 October
Soil Preparation/Composting/Vermiculture
03 November
Sustainability and Food Issues in Modern America/Supplies/Sources/Annuals/
17 November
Planting/Companions/Crop Rotation in a Small Garden/ Chicken Raising Sherilyn Powell-Wolf
24 November
Perennials/Bulbs as a part of your food supply/Beekeeping
01 December
Home orchard/Vines
08 December
Planning for Continuous Harvests/Potluck

(Syllabus may be changed as needed to reflect reality.)

Please note that November has a few holidays – we will need to ensure that watering happens to keep the plants alive while we all enjoy the celebrations. Remember, plants do not take a holiday. We will make a schedule for watering.

Point Assignment Structure
Class participation (and cooperation)
20

A grade of A
> 90%
Garden Journal
30

B
>80%
1 page write-up*
10

C
>70%
Planting Project
40

D and F
Failing
TOTAL
100



  • A sample one-page write up is the final page of this syllabus.
Please note, I try to grade you on your personal improvement. Cooperation is counted more than competition in my classes.

Office hours are by appointment only – please call or email me. I am willing to meet with you; I want you to learn; I do not want you to struggle. Please do not hesitate to call me, rather than try to talk to me in class when I can't really give you undivided attention. Extra points are available if you need to earn more credit.

Every week, we will prepare some seasonal food to eat. There are no places to buy food while in class and we are here for four hours. Students are encouraged to bring in food to share with the class at all meetings. Students should bring in their own plate and eating utensils so we can have a minimum waste event. The last class meeting will be a potluck where we will all share local and fresh food! (That's the point, right?)

The Learning Garden is open daily, 10 to 5:00 PM, every day except Monday and Tuesday. You are welcome to come here and work on your plot or just come and hang out. It's always best to call ahead to make sure I'm here as sometimes I have errands or meetings off campus.

Criteria for your garden plot grade:
  1. You should experiment and try something you have never done – explore!
  2. Your plot and adjacent pathways should be cleared of weeds.
  3. Your plot and adjacent pathways should be well mulched.
  4. Your plot should be attractive and be growing some food.
  5. Your journal should indicate you learned something from the plot.

The person who starts from seed vs. bringing in growing plants, will have plants not nearly as far along as the others – but stands to make a better grade if they have experimented with growing from seed – I am more interested that you LEARN in this class – just doing what you already have done doesn't teach you anything. We are all gardeners here, if we don't have patience yet, we soon will. Cultivate patience with your plants while in The Learning Garden.

All handouts (including this syllabus) will be available on the blog site:


BEETS Beta vulgaris
Botanical Information:
Chenopodiaceae, Goosefoot family
4 to 8” tall
Biennial
Growing Season:
Spring, Fall and Winter
Seed to Harvest:
8 weeks or more
Spacing: 3” on a side
Seeds store: ~4

Choice Varieties: Chioggia, Burpee's Golden,

Cotyledons:
Description:
The sweet roots of beets are often over- looked because of their 'earthy' taste. The problem with most beets on dinner tables these days is that they've been out of the ground for a very long time – the earthiness overtakes the sweetness. These two beets, the Italian Chioggia and the Golden Beet from W. Atlee Burpee Co. breeding program in the late 1800's, are among the sweetest vegetables in any garden!

Starting the seeds: Direct sow in the garden, a short row every week or so all through the cool season

Growing: Keep the moisture as even as possible. Mulch the beets as soon as possible – don't cover their leaves, but bring the compost as close to the plants as you can without covering the leaves. Cut off the leaves of any that are too close together – throw the baby leaves in salads. Do try to give them enough space to make an edible root, an inch or so for those who want baby beets, two or more for larger roots.

Harvesting: Pull roots as you need them. Beets do not have to be pulled all at once and will hold in the garden for a few weeks – longer if it's cool out.

Preparation and Using: Beet greens can be used just the same as chard – they are, in fact, the same species, one bred for a root and the other for its leaves. They taste pretty much the same and can be cooked the same or used raw in salads.
Today, most folks don't realize that American sugar was beet sugar until the mid 1900's when we switched to 'pure cane sugar.' The roots, though, should be just par-boiled enough to get the skins to slip off. Slice them into convenient slices and sauté in orange juice until slightly al denté. This is a wonderfully sweet side dish. Cut red beets into heart shapes before sautéing and serve on Valentine's Day or another significant holiday for your love.

Problems: Not much in our climate, although snails will eat the baby leaves as they emerge.


Monday, July 29, 2013

Last Class for Container Gardening


Your final project is due tonight for all credit students  

Here are some of the lecture notes:  

Maintenance: what is necessary to keep containers healthy?
“Clean the terra cotta pots each year to prevent passing along fungi, bacteria or viruses. Remove plants and soil from the pots and bake the containers in the oven set at 220 degrees Fahrenheit for an hour or so to kill anything residing on the pots. Allow them to cool slowly to room temperature before moving them. Another option for cleaning terra cotta pots is to soak them in white vinegar Rinse well and let the clay pots sit for a couple of days to dry out before replanting.” I would try the vinegar solution, but baking my containers? NONSENSE!!

Watering and Fertilizing Plants in Pots
Fertilizers are salts – if you overfertilize, salt build up – my regimen, low fertilizer will prevent this from happening most of the time unless there is excess salt in the clay itself...

Plants in containers need frequent watering compared to in-ground gardens due to limited soil volume and because exposed sides lead to greater evaporation.

Water when the top 1 or 2 inches of potting soil feel dry, saturating the potting soil.

If there is some doubt that soil is thoroughly moist -- if plants wilt quickly or if potting soil pulls away from the container's sides -- occasionally soak pots in a sink or bathtub of tepid water to make sure the potting soil is fully saturated. Never soak plants for more than a few hours; also drain excess water from drain trays to avoid drowning plants by driving out all soil oxygen.

Soluble Salt Buildup in Clay Pots
Plants dry out sooner in clay pots than plastic containers, but the permeability of clay pots can be helpful -- especially when removing soluble salts, which can build up in soil to toxic levels. When clay pots "wick away" moisture from the soil they contain, they also absorb soluble salts. These salts sometimes come from water high in carbonates, salts or other minerals. They also come from inorganic fertilizers -- which potted plants generally need, because they are not grown in true soil -- and sometimes also from potting soil mixes derived from animal manure.

Preventing Salt Buildup
1. Use quality clay containers that will not have a high salt content to begin with.
2. Control the amount of fertilizer you apply – especially of inorganic fertlizers (the blue crap for example).
3. Water as I showed you – water when you water and see that water is flushed through the entire container
Following this regimen will prevent most of the salt buildup that folks experience.

Removing Salt Buildup on Clay Pots
Soak salt-stained terra cotta pots -- without potting soil or plants -- for a few hours in vinegar to remove salt deposits. If pots are heavily salt crusted, soak them for 10 or 12 hours then scrub thoroughly with a steel wool cleaning pad or a wire brush.
Most advice on sterilizing your containers is from people with far too much time on their hands – most of the sterlization at the Learning Garden is done with sunlight and air. Containers are usually allowed to breath between plantings – if they are really dirty, we scrub them out, and are left to dry. In 15 years, we've had no soil born insects or pathengens pass from plant to plant in our containers.
Uusally a 10% bleach solution is recommended. If you have clothes you want to ruin, go for it.

We've done renovation.... Questions?
Use a machete to remove plants from a straight sided container – curved containers are more difficult, if you can find an old saw blade and use it, you might find it works.


Pests
Less fertilizer will net you fewer insects – high Nitrogen causes a sweet succulent growth that attracts pests like the Vegas Strip attracts pests of a different sort.

Adapt a policy of 'Acceptable Damage” - how much damage will you allow on a given plant – it will vary from species to species.

Do not plant plants that will have an unacceptable level of pest infestation for you, i.e. eugenia

Do not plants plants in areas they will not fare well. Plants placed in conditions that don't favor them will also attract pests.

ANY spray, chemical and especially organic ones, KILL more than your target species. Consider the plight of the honey bee and think HARD before you spray.

If you must spray, I ask you use organic pesticides and spray ONLY at dusk. Honey bees will have returned to the hive and the pesticide will be dry by morning and so will not harm them. Still, your spraying will kill unintended victims – most infestations are spotted by beneficial insects before humans and the eggs of beneficial insects will be among your victims.

Some of the common LA pests
  • aphids – sucking insects in white, black, green and pink. If the infestation is within parameters, consider first off of leaving it be, if too much for you, then either wash off with water, rub off with a gloved hand – spraying with an insecticide – even an organic one, should be the course of last resort
  • cabbage looper – white moth lays eggs hatching out a voracious little green larvae that can devour an entire plant in a few days – hand picking works. Bt is somewhat innocuous. Attacts mostly cabbage family members, but is similar enough to the hornworms that attact tomatoes and other members of that family – even though it's a different species they are for practical reasons treated about the same.
  • Powdery mildew – we've discussed controls in class
  • Slugs and snails – beer traps, hand picking and physical control

Year 'round Interest
A general, non-specific discussion about how to keep your containers interesting through out the year.

Thank you for your participation in this class - you are what makes this work or not - your enthusiasm is contagious and I know you'll have many wonderful containers planted in the years to come! 

Good luck!  


david


Saturday, July 27, 2013

Map for Today's Field Trip

I have been struggling to get a map up here... Instead of a map, I can give you a LINK to a map.  

Today at 1:30 we are meeting at:  

Pottery Manufacturing and Distributing, 18881 S. Hoover Street, Gardena, CA 90248 Phone: 310.323.7772

david
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