Grafting
is probably considered the most “mystical” of arts in that area
known as “horticulture” as practiced by the gardening public. It
is not mystical any more than sunrise and sunset is, but if you don't
know the basics, it can be forbidding. Know the rules and it's just
as common as a sunrise, don't learn the rules and you are lost.
Soon,
I'll write out the story of how I came to be totally in awe of
grafters and the event that changed my approach to garden science.
In this small intro, I will introduce the basics of grafting as
simply and straight forward as I can.
The absolute first thing to say about grafting is that you are working with really, really sharp knives. Your first priority must be safety - afterall, you will be using YOUR fingers and these knives are sharp. Have bandaids - at minimum, if not a well stocked first aid kit. ALL grafters I know, except those that ride motorcycles really (REALLY) fast, have at least some kind of first aid material in the same bag as their knives. Pay attention. Ask those around you to not talk to you while you are grafting. Do not graft while on the phone. Do not graft while driving. Give that knife and where it is pointed your full attention - all the time that blade is exposed. If it's sharp enough to graft, it's sharp enough to cut into you all the way to the bone. I've done it. It doesn't hurt until it hits the bone and then it hurts for a very long time. Never point the sharp end of the blade towards any part of your body - especially your left thumb - that's the one that gets nailed the most. Please! And thank you!
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These are grafting knives; the bottom wood handled knife is a Tina bench grafting knife - it doesn't fold and cannot
| carried with ease in a pocket, the next knife up is a Swiss Army in my favorite blade style (identical blade to the one above it), the next knife is usually considered best for budding. The one on farthest right is just another grafting blade. The knife at the top is my favorite - "new old stock" from eBay. I love the feel of this knife and use it for most of my work. It is resting on a roll of half inch Parafilm. |
You need;
A
very sharp knife
Two
pieces of wood (described below)
And
something to hold them together
Your
sharp knife does not have to be a grafting knife, although if you
intend to graft as an ongoing project, you will find a grafting knife
increases your chances of a good graft. Some grafters simply use
those utility box cutters and break off the old blades instead of
having to sharpen the blades. I found that a difficult tool to
handle – but then again, I am pleased with my grafting knives and
enjoy using different ones on different days, but that's me and my
obsessive/compulsive personality.
But
your knife must be SHARP. Even to the point of stopping every
several cuts and honing it a little more.
The
“Something to hold them together” has really improved in the last
few years. In the past grafters have used plastic bags, electrical
tape, duct tape (omigaud!) and tar. Today we have “Parafilm” and
without it, I would not be a very good grafter. This stuff (can be
found on eBay and Amazon as well as other sites – I even have a few
rolls to sell pretty much all the time as I buy in bulk for my
class). It is not expensive. As you pull on it, to wrap your graft,
the Parafilm becomes more pliable and will actually begin to seal to
itself with just a little pressure. When firmly wrapped, in all but
the most difficult of grafts, Parafilm will hold your graft together.
Certainly as a beginner, you would not normally be undertaking grafts
that were above the cohesion of Parafilm to hold it together.
The
“two pieces of wood” is what makes this all interesting. If this
is your first shot at grafting, I would strongly urge you to graft
apples – the apple tree wood is easy to work with and the chance of
success is strong. Citrus is one of the worst as it is really hard
wood and difficult to shape. Get some miles under your knife and
then tackle citrus.
This shot, while of a rose, shows the ring around the stem that is called the Cambium. It is the living tissue of woody plants and this tissue on your rootstock must be touching the scion's cambium. That is the thrust of grafting.
One
piece of wood is a “scion” while the other piece of wood is
“rootstock.” The scion possesses the fruit you want to grow on
the rootstock. The rootstock is the rest of the tree that is not
this scion. You can graft five apples to one tree. All the pieces
you graft to the tree are 'scions.' That which holds them from
falling to the ground is the 'rootstock.' In the case of the apples,
the scion is collected because we want that apple's taste or
usability; an eating apple or a cider apple, one that bears in late
Spring and another the blooms in late Summer – whatever
characteristics you feel you want in an apple.
The
rootstock can be an existing tree on your property or you can order
rootstock from some regional nurseries – they are not expensive.
One chooses rootstock on it's qualities – some rootstocks withstand
disease or wind or drought or dwarf your tree by a given percent. In
Southern California most experienced apple growers would choose M111.
I order my rootstock (sometimes referred to as “wood” in a
generic way) from Raintree Nursery.
They have always been reliable and prompt.
Now
we get to make our cuts. The scion wood should be about the diameter
of a pencil and the part of the rootstock you are going to attach the
scion to should be about the same diameter – it need not be exact,
but the closer it is the better.
This
shot, while of a rose, shows the ring around the stem that is called
the Cambium. It is the living tissue of woody plants that is alive
and this tissue on your rootstock must be touching to the scion.
That is the thrust of grafting.
“Patience
my be called a 'virtue' for most of mankind, but for a grafter it is
essential.” The quote originally said “gardeners” but it is
more than applicable to grafters. It's my quote, I can do with it
what I please.
Before
I let my students actually graft a plant in class, we find some wood
from an apple tree and we work on it, making straight cuts – which
are useful, if not essential – for eventual grafting. You will
want to be able to control the knife in making a clean, straight and
even cut. It must be straight up and down, no bows or bumps, and
straight across, no twists or turns, and it must be the correct
length in total.
Once
you have found a piece of apple wood – or other deciduous fruit,
but I use apple because I have it and it is probably the easiest and
your knife is sharp, its time to begin your practice. We are going
to work with a simple Cleft graft. The down end of the scion is cut
to a “V” shape and the rootstock is simply slit down the middle.
I actually prefer to switch these roles where the rootstock holds the
“V” shape and the scion is split down the middle. The feeling I
have is that the “V” on the bottom might collect moisture and rot
at some point down the road, but there are many enthusiasts that will
say “that's never happened to me!” So which is what, can be a
matter of preference. If “simple” is your only criteria, then
the “V” should be on the scion.
Cutting
the “V” is important and presently you will see how many ways it
can be screwed up. You would like to make it with as few strokes of
the knife as possible – two strokes is perfect – but three is not
uncommon. You want to avoid the “whittling” of the wood if at
all possible. Once you have sliced off one portion, a lot of what has
been written above will make more tangible sense that it did before.
You
want a piece of wood that has a very fine point on it with both
sides cut straight – no dips and/or turns in the blade as it goes
through. This is harder than it sounds. Resist the urge – you will
feel it – to turn the scion around, using the thumb on your right
hand to brace the knife cutting the wood! I know the knife appears
stuck, but when it comes unstuck, it will slice right through the
wood and on into your thumb. Keep the knife blade pointed away from
yourself and gently rock it back and forth. Presently it will become
unstuck and you can finish the cut bloodlessly.
Practice
this cut as many times as needed to build confidence with your
ability to handle the knife. It is normal to have to sharpen your
knife mid-project as needed. You will want the “V” to be a very
sharp angle. Making the slice in the opposite piece to this
equation, is very straight forward: as near to the center, simply
rock your knife to make a straight cut about as long as your “V”
on the other piece of wood.
Before
you begin to put them together, begin to wrap the rootstock with the
Parafilm. Pull the Parafilm tight as you wrap, stretching it out and
binding it to itself until you reach the beginning of the nascent
graft. Place the the two wood pieces together. Inspect for cambium
to cambium connection – this is the essential part of the graft.
Wherever the cambium of these two pieces meet is the beginning of
your new tree. If they don't meet, you have wasted your time and the
tree's resources. Once you are certain you have the most cambium
meeting you can, hold that graft very tightly while you finish
wrapping the Parafilm over the graft. You can simply pull hard on
the Parafilm and it will break where you end.
If
the tip of your scion was cut, you should also wrap that in Parafilm.
Remember, loss of water and cambium not matching are the two major
causes of graft failure. Parafilm is relatively cheap, so use more
than less!
Your
graft, if done properly, will show signs of taking in 3 to 4 weeks,
sometimes more, occasionally less. The weather has a lot to do with
it. If you failed, don't worry. You've just joined the very large
majority of grafters that have failed once or twice. Or more.
Mostly “or more.” Whether or not your graft takes, make sure you
examine the whole process and evaluate how well you were prepared and
what parts of your technique needs refinement and work with yourself
to improve your chances.
And
know that every year, you must revisit these skills anew. I usually
set aside a couple of one hour slots for a few weeks before grafting
to get my skills into top shape.
Remember
to remind yourself that grafting, while a science, is also an art.
Some are gifted grafters, while the rest of us must work at it. But
practice does make perfect.
This
is your first graft to learn – there are more. I'll be doing an
informal series on grafting over the next few months. Stay tuned
and if you don't understand something – ask questions! I'll answer
them for everyone's benefit.
david
NB. Look for this to be updated in a few days with photographs to make it more clear.
