Perennials For Food Production

Perennials/Bulbs

Artichokes

Asparagus

Chives

Horseradish

Jerusalem artichokes

Onions, walking and others

Rhubarb 

Saffron

Strawberries

Shrubs:

Blueberries (Southern Highbush, low chill) – to about 4 feet, prefer acidic soils and lot’s of water. Other than that, easy to grow

Ribes sp.

Vines/Brambles

Grapes

Berries/Rasp and black, boysenberry

Hops

Kiwis

Passion fruit 

The following herbs are perennial as well:

Anise hyssop

Some basils

Burnet, salad

Ginger

Hyssop

Lavender

Lemongrass

Lemon Verbena

Lovage

Sweet margoram

Mints

Oregano, Greek (Origanum heracleoticum)

Parsley

Rosemary

Sage

Tarragon, French

Thyme 

What are the advantages of perennial plants being a part of your food growing mix, besides just being plain delicious?

david

STORM THIS WEEKEND/UPDATE!

Under almost any conditions afforded by the climate in Southern California, we can have class no matter what.  However, this weekend, I have heard reports of up to two inches of rain in a 24 hour period.  IF that happens, we will have to schedule a make up class - probably 11 December (afternoon).  If we have just a bad drool or even a light rain, pull on your boots and jacket and come on out - we will have class.  The prospect of flooding is the only thing that bothers me.

ADDENDUM, 8:00AM Sunday - Class is going forward - although we will not be able to garden, we will do some lecture, and maybe do garden inspections...  I would rather meet today and not have to postpone.  

david

COMMON Seed Viability

Seeds are the basis of all we eat.  Failure to maintain access to seeds could become one of the biggest failures of our generation.  Grow open pollinated plants and save their seed to plant again next year.  Insure the safety of your food sources. 

 

Approximate age at which seed of good initial viability stored under cool and dry conditions will still give a satisfactory germination. Seed stored dry and cool will last longer. Remember, a researcher at UCLA germinated lotus seed found in a pyramid that was over several thousand years old.

Common Name Binomial Family ~ Age

Asparagus Asparagus officinalis Liiaceae 3

Beans Phaseolus vulgaris (& others) Fabaceae 3

Beets Beta vulgaris Chenopodiaceae 4

Broccoli Brassica oleracea Brassicaceae 5

Cabbage Brassica oleracea Brassicaceae 5

Cardoon Cynara cardunculus Asteraceae 5

Carrots Daucus carota sativus Apiaceae 3

Cauliflower Brassica oleracea Brassicaceae 5

Celeriac Apium graveolens rapaceum Apiaceae 5

Celery Apium graveolens dulce Apiaceae 5

Chervil Anthriscus cerefolium Apiaceae 3

Collards Brassica oleracea Brassicaceae 5

Corn Zea mays Poaceae 2

Cress Lepidium sativum Brassicaceae 5

Cucumbers Cucumis melo Cucurbitaceae 5

Eggplant Solanum melongena Solanaceae 5

Endive Cichorium endivia Asteraceae 5

Fennel Foeniculum vulgare Apiaceae 4

Kale Brassica oleracea Brassicaceae 5

Kohlrabi Brassica oleracea Brassicaceae 5

Leeks Allium porrum Liiaceae 3

Lettuce Lactuca sativa Asteraceae 5

Muskmelons Cucumis melo Cucurbitaceae 5

Mustard Brassica cretica Brassicaceae 4

Okra Abelmoschus esculentus Solanacea 2

Onions Allium cepa Amaryllidaceae 1

Parsley Petroselinum crispum Apiaceae 1

Parsnips Pastinaca sativa Apiaceae 1

Peas Pisum sativum Fabaceae 3

Peppers Capsicum annuum Solanaceae 2

Pumpkins Cucurbita maxima Cucurbitaceae 4

Radishes Raphanus landra Brassicaceae 5

Spinach Spinacia oleracea Chenopodiaceae 5

Squash Cucurbita moschata; C. pepo and C. maxima Cucurbitaceae 4

Swiss Chard Beta vulgaris Chenopodiaceae 4

Tomatoes Lycopersicon esculentum Solanaceae 4

Turnips Brassica rapa Brassicaceae 4

Watermelons Citrullus lanatus Cucurbitaceae 4

david

Month By Month Planting Guide for Southern California: A 'Cheat Sheet'

These generalizations are for The Learning Garden, located in Sunset Zone 24, less than 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean in an alluvial plain that is just above sea level. Cold air from the near-by hills drains into our area and we are reliably cooler than much of the surrounding areas. If you are growing inland from us, your temperatures fluctuate more than ours. As one gardens further from the ocean, the temperatures are less moderate and the effects of heat and cold are more pronounced. While we can grow some cool season crops year round (kale and chard come to mind first), this becomes more difficult without the ocean's pronounced influence. (Photo:  Bundles of fresh food are being sorted into individual packages for distribution with the Westside Produce Exchange for redistribution.)

January:

Plant in the ground: lettuce, carrots, beets, parsnips, potatoes, celeriac, radishes, spinach,

Plant in containers: lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, kale, chard, (these last two can be started now, but they would have been better started earlier – their production will be reduced by the coming warmer weather), peas, fava beans, lentils, garbanzo beans

February:

Plant in the ground: lettuce (and other salad greens), carrots, beets parsnips, radishes, spinach, purple beans,

Plant in containers: early tomatoes, basil, cucumbers, summer squash

March:

Plant in the ground: purple beans, lettuce, radishes, purple beans, beets, radishes, spinach, set out plants of basil, early tomatoes, later in the month, sow early sweet corn,

Plant in containers: tomatoes, basil, peppers, eggplant, cucumbers, melons, all squash,

April

Plant in the ground: beans of all colors, lettuce, radishes, beets, spinach, set out plants of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, basil, you can start planting all corn now

Plant in containers: tomatoes, basil, peppers, eggplant, cucumbers, melons & squash, okra,

May:

Plant in the ground: all basil, eggplant, all melons and all squash (including cucumbers, set out plants of same and all tomatoes, eggplants and peppers) green and yellow beans and all the dried beans; corn too, if you have room

Plant in containers: As in April, but it's getting late – peppers, eggplants and basil are still OK to start, but it's getting late, did I say it was getting late?

June:

Plant in the ground: all the above, but it's getting late... you can still get a crop, but it will be cut shorter by any early cool weather; the last of the corn can go in early in the month

Plant in containers: after starting pumpkin seeds, take a nap

July:

Plant in the ground only out of necessity – extreme necessity

Plant in containers: continue napping

August:

Plant in the ground: nothing if you can avoid it

Plant in containers: towards the end of the month, in a shaded location, the first of the winter veggies can be started, cabbage, broccoli, kale, chard, fava beans, leeks, shallots, onions...

September:

Plant in the ground: nothing, until late in the month, start sowing turnips, parsnips, radishes, beets and carrots – keep seeds moist! Peas, lentils and garbanzo beans can be sown...

Plant in containers: Cabbage, broccoli, kale, chard, favas, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts,

October:

Plant in the ground: by now you can begin to set out some of your cabbage, broccoli, kale, cauliflower, chard and so on. Continue with seeds as above... you can also direct sow favas if you want. Potatoes can usually be found about now as well as sets or seed bubls of onions, garlic and shallots and they all should be planted from now until late November.

Plant in containers: More Cruciferae and favas, celery and celeriac,

November:

Plant in the ground: More of September's plants can be sown – you still have time for all of them except onions, this will be the last month to plant peas, lentils, garbanzos, shallots, garlic and fava beans. Their growing season is too long to get the harvest you would want. Although the legumes can be planted if you are willing to take a lesser harvest or are using them as a cover (green manure) crop.

Plant in containers: I'm still sowing cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower, but Brussels sprouts are a longer season item so they're not a part of my efforts until next season's planting begins.

December:

Plant in the ground: Too little light and too many parties make it difficult to find garden time – but if you have some things left over from November, try to get that done.

Plant in containers: Pretty much the same story, if you have time, do more of all that's listed from November.

There are two big shifts in Southern Californian gardening: At the end of September, beginning of October it's all about the winter crops. At the end of February, beginning of March, the focus all shifts to summer and the heat lovers. Seeds get started slightly before then (if you have the right conditions, up to six weeks before then!). 

david 

Quick Notes for November 7th Class

1.  The menu has changed: rhubarb pie will be a different day.

2.  It will be cold.

3.  Soup will be hot.

4.  We will meet a chicken, not in the soup.

5.  We will discuss bees, using an empty hive.

6.  I hope you remember to set you clocks back!

david

Shelia's Curry Squash Soup

Serves: 4
1 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 onion or 1 shallot finely chopped
1 clove garlic finely chopped
2 Tbsp curry powder or more if you like...
4 cups roasted or boiled squash
4 cups vegetable broth
2 Tbsp butter (optional)
S/P to taste

Saute onion & garlic in olive oil over medium heat, until lite golden brown.
Add curry powder and mix well.
Add cooked squash, coating with onion and curry mixture.
Add vegetable broth and integrate items well with salt & pepper.
I used an immersion blender in the pot or you can do in smaller batches slowly ~ add to a blender & mix well. Be VERY careful, the mixture is hot.
Add back to pot, test for seasonings & add butter if you like.

Serve with the following options: a dollop of cream and/or croutons

Designing a Garden

Implementing some of my ideas about what makes a garden truly integrated to one's life, this little spot of heaven at The Learning Garden served us for a couple of years as 'the beautiful food garden' near the faculty parking lot gate - it was considered far too shady for vegetables until I harvested a bushel of tomatoes from three plants grown here!

There are a number of questions one must ask before one can even begin to look at seed catalogs in putting together a garden. This fact finding step is often overlooked and by itself can account for a good number of neophyte gardeners failing. Some of these questions seem silly perhaps but they are not.

It seems that one would know, but often one is only vaguely aware of, why they want a garden in the first place. But this question holds the key to progress in more ways than you can imagine.

If my 'why' of growing a garden is to produce 10 pounds of pinto beans to dry and store and I have a shady spot that is as big as a large tomato plant, then perhaps I need to reconsider where I will garden and begin by investigating community gardens in the area or a neighbor who would cooperate in my vision.

One important note that holds all gardeners in good stead is to list all the reasons why and keep them close at hand. And especially to include “to learn” as one of the big reasons, providing of course, you can learn from disaster. The really good gardener is not one who has had no disasters. The really good gardener is one who has had disasters and has continued to garden learning from the past and approaching the next season more sagaciously aware of the vagaries of gardening.

So... First order of business is to make a Why I Want This Garden List and populate it with every reason you can. On that day when the wiley world of popular culture calls you to come play when the Garden needs to be watered or else it will die, then you need that list to set your priorities straight. Obviously, I'm on the side of the garden, but in our very busy world of many choices, even I can admit to wandering away from my plants more than I should perhaps ought. Right now, instead of being a conscientious author and instructor, I should be weeding the area where I plan on planting garlic tomorrow. It is the way of this world. (It also explains why I believe in having a really good flashlight among my gardening tools!)

Beginning gardeners especially should not give this question short shrift. Those of us who have been at a while probably already have this list, even if it is only in the back of our minds. It wouldn't hurt to write it down before the mind begins to forget. Just saying.

Next, one has to survey the physical space. Questions that must be answered include the obvious, for example:

1. What is the size of my garden?
2. Where does the light come from or where is it blocked?
3. How many hours of sunlight does it get in a day in summer?
4. How many hours of sunlight does it get in a day in winter? (Ah, yes, the two are different!)
5. What is the nature of the soil? (This was in part answered for us in the first lecture.)
6. Where do I get water from to water my garden? Is there a spigot nearby?
7. Can I plant near to where I will use the plants? I'm thinking of the kitchen...

Then there are a few less obvious that are no less important, but will change based on your reasons for growing a garden:

1. What do I like to eat?
2. How much do I think I need to sow to get a decent harvest?
3. What crops will have a higher value to me that will increase my pleasure from the garden?
4. What tasks in the garden do I find pleasurable?

And, in what might seem slightly incongruent to this discussion, the next most important question after 'why' for me is: where will I sit? This well may sound like an old man bitching about his knees or his back or something yet again, but it's not. In my evolution as a gardener, the genesis of this idea came from the old saying, “The best fertilizer is the farmer's shadow,” meaning of course, the plants that are attended to by the farmer will grow better than neglected plants. I had the epiphany one day that I would be a more effective gardener, if I had a place to sit down and drink a cup of coffee, or sit down and have an ice tea, or sit down and write something, or sit down and just LOOK at my garden. The key ingredient is that “I would sit down...” I would spend more time there and be aware of subtle changes more quickly (like, 'gee where'd all my seedlings go?') and be able to interact with the garden on a much more intimate level.

So, I ask 'Where will you sit?' in your garden. I like a bit of shade, a small table to hold my computer or my pad and my drink. I don't need much else. But, simply by this one addition, I find my relationship with the space changed dramatically. No longer is the 'garden' a distant thing, it is now a part and parcel of my world and I can be a part of it – it will not only feed me, but it will soothe me, it will help to heal me after a day of being bashed about in the office or any of the other slings and arrows of modern life. In fact, a large part of the stress of modern life, I believe, can be traced back to the lack of this kind of plant interaction that used to be part and parcel of human existence. Whether it is the box that holds some tools, or a fancy little Parisian outdoor café set, find something to sit on where you can leisurely appreciate your garden for more than a few minutes at a time.

The importance of soil is covered elsewhere – but do allow for some different considerations in light requirements in the city. Typically, a southern exposure is the best for all forms of food gardening, a western exposure being slightly less so and an eastern exposure slightly even more less (is that a proper way to say that?) so. However, a large tree or a large building on the near horizon can interrupt the amount of sun your garden receives. And note that the sun is much lower on the horizon in the fall and winter. This can result in a total lack of sun during those months.

On the other hand, I have discovered that city shade is often ameliorated by the presence of large light colored walls that reflect a quantity of light into spaces that seem as thought they should be dark. In one apartment, the front door faced north with a balcony 'in shade.' However, two light colored buildings (east and north) reflected light onto that balcony all day long which made that balcony the equivalent of full sun!

The bottom line, then is that an inventory of the light available for your plants can vary from what a person sees with just a cursory glance.

If you can't tell true north easily, you need to purchase a small, inexpensive compass. In Los Angeles, most of our street grid is NOT on a true north/south axis. This is actually very beneficial because that offset means that few spaces are truly in the shaded north side of a building. Almost always there is more light than one would think and that is good news. 

david