Preparing for Our Field Trip (Saturday) to CRFG

Scion Wood Preparation

Select straight wood from last year’s growth and cut as near to our scion wood exchange date as possible.  

Wood should be ¼” – 3/8” diameter (pencil size) and contain several buds.

Cut to lengths that fit easily into a Ziploc-type bag.  Cut with a slanting cut on the top (distal) end and flat cut on the end that would have been nearest the trunk (medial).

Bundle by variety in a moist paper towel(s) and place in a Ziploc-type bag,  leaving a slight opening in the Ziploc bag for the wood to breathe. Put only one variety in each bag. Make sure that the towel(s) stay damp as long as the wood is stored.

Label the outside of the bag with fruit type and variety, as well as any additional information you feel is pertinent (i.e. minimum chilling hours; needs pollinator; vigor; area where successfully grown, etc). It’s nice to add your name so that those collecting your wood know where the wood came from and can ask you questions about the parent tree.

Keep the scion wood bag in the vegetable bin of your refrigerator until the morning of the exchange.  Be careful not to let the scion wood freeze!

 

 At the exchange, please wait to make your selections until directed by the Chair.

Please limit your selections to two of any variety, until everyone has had an opportunity to collect wood. Then feel free to go back. Please do not collect wood you do not plan to use.

What to do with your collected scion wood after the scion exchange:

Try out the techniques you have learned as soon as possible! If you don’t plan to graft as soon as you get home, remember to add moist paper to the bag and refrigerate until you have the time to graft. Do not freeze!

Be careful with the label. An all too frequent mistake is to put the label in the bag with the wood. Then, when you add moist paper, the label becomes unreadable.

To avoid bringing disease into your garden, immerse your chosen scion wood cuttings in a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water for 10 seconds.

Have fun creating your trees!

From the CRFG Santa Monica Chapter's newsletter...

david

CHOOSING ROOTSTOCKS FOR PROPAGATION

The lower portion of the a fruit tree is called the rootstock. This is the portion of the tree that has been grafted over to a specific variety. Different rootstock's provide opportunities for everyone to enjoy the thrill of growing your own fruit. If you have limited growing space you could choose a dwarf rootstock that limits the height of your tree to as little as 5 feet! There are possibilities and sizes to match almost any need. Lastly, pruning has a great impact on size, if you need to maintain a certain height then also prune in the summer.

NOTE: Mature tree size is determined by the rootstock in combination with the vigor of the variety. For example, a Northern Spy or Gravenstein on a semidwarf rootstock will be larger than a Jonathan or Idared on the same rootstock. Research has shown that the growth of a tree composed of two parts is a compromise between the rootstock and the scion.

It is important for the relationship between scion and rootstock to be close. The botanical classification can only serve as a rough guide being founded strictly on reproduction parts of plants. Something greater than kinship is required for a graft to be successful and that depends on similarity of vegetative characteristics. For example, pears (Pyrus communis) will form a lasting union with hawthorn (Crataegus oxyacantha) and medlar (Mespilus germanica), but the joining of species within a given genus is much more common.

Symptoms of incompatibility are either immediately visible when the graft simply fails to take but just as often are not apparent for many years afterwards. The most common evidence later on is that the composite tree breaks off at the graft. The problem of incompatibility might be exacerbated by multiple grafts.

APPLE ROOTSTOCK

MM111 (Semidwarf) Produces a tree 70-80% of standard size. Growth tends to be upright with wide crotch angles. Well anchored, resistant to drought and high soil temperatures. Excellent semi dwarf rootstock for heavy soils. Resistant to wooly aphids. Disadvantage is burrknotting. Bears fruit 3 to 4 years and grows to 15 to 18 feet.

M9 (Dwarf) Produces a tree 30-40% of standard size. Resistant to collar rot and rarely produces suckers. Withstands heavy soils and wet conditions. Disadvantage is that roots tend to be brittle, so trees on this rootstock require staking throughout their entire life. Not suited to dry, light soils. Bears fruit 1-2 years and grows to 6-9 feet.

EMLA 27 Can be maintained at only four to six feet in height. It is well suited for growing in a container of a small yard. Trees grafted on EMLA 27 bear early and heavily. They should be staked.

EMLA 7 Produces a semi-dwarf tree 11 to 16 feet tall. Does well in most soils annd produces fruit in about three to four years. Does well in even wet soils, but is inclined to suckering wherever planted.

EMLA 26 Will produce a dwarf tree from 8 to 14 feet. Des well in most soils, producing fruit in about two to three years. Needs staking in windy sites and is relatively sucker free. This is the rootstock I have chosen for this class.

PEAR ROOTSTOCK

Standard Produces a strong well anchored tree. Trees are vigorous and tolerant of drought and wet soils. Bears fruit between 6-12 years and grows to 20-25 feet.

OHxF 333 (Old Home and Farmingdale) Produces a tree 50-70% of standard size. Resistant to fire blight and pear decline. Does not sucker and developes hardy well anchored tree. Tolerates a broad range of soils. Bears fruit between 3-4 years and grows to 12-16 feet.

STONE FRUITS ROOTSTOCK

Lovell Produces a strong well anchored tree with resistance to bacterial canker. Tolerates cold and wet soils. Susceptible to nematodes in sandy soil. Bears fruit 2-3 years and grows to 15-18 feet.

Mariana Produces a shallow rooted tree allowing greater tolerance to wet soils. Resistant to oak root fungus, some nematodes and brown line. Slightly dwarfing for plums and apricots. Bears fruit 2-3 years and grows to 15 – 18 feet.

Mazzard Cherry rootstock that produces a large tree well anchored that tolerates heavy soil. Resistant to oak root fungus and root knot nematodes. Bears fruit 5-6 years and grows to 20-35 feet.

Mahaleb Cherry rootstock that produces a standard size tree for sour cherries and slightly dwarfing for sweet cherries. Prefers well drained soils. Resistant to crown gall, bacterial canker, and some nematodes. Hardy to zone 4. Bears fruit 3-5 years and grows to 20-30 feet.

Colt Cherry rootstock that produces wide branched angles on a well anchored tree. Tree is 70-80% of standard. Resistance to bacterial canker and crown gall. Hardy to -10 F. Bears fruit 3-4 years and grows 15-20 feet.

G.M. 61/1 Cherry rootstock that produces a open, moderately vigorous, frost resistant, few suckers and thrives in heavier soil. Bears fruit in 3-4 years and grows to 8-12 feet.

Myrobalan Produces a tree with great anchorage and tolerant of wet soils. Susceptible to oak root fungus and nematodes. Bears fruit in 2-3 years and grows to 12-18 feet.

Nemaguard Produces a vigorous tree in well drained soils. Susceptible to wet feet. Redundant phrase, but needs to be said, nematode resistant. Bears fruit in 2-3 years and grows to 12-18 feet.

Citation Produces a tree 50-65% of standard in peaches and 75% of standard in apricots and plums. Strong well anchored. Resistant to nematodes, tolerant of wet soils, no suckers, and cold tolerant. (zone 4). Bears fruit in 2-3 years and grows to 12-16 feet.

NUT ROOTSTOCK

Almond Resistant to bacterial canker and nematodes. Bears fruit 3-4 years and grows to 10-14 feet.

Pecan Bears fruit 5-8 years and grows to 30-60 feet.

Walnut Bears fruit 5-10 years and grows to 18-30 feet

From the Raintree Nursery Catalog...

david

Class Schedule Update!

Date	Mtg.	TOPIC
01/09/11	1	Lecture: Introduction – roll, Extension policy, meeting time and place, attendance and tardiness, tools etc. Tool selection and care. Sexual and asexual propagation defined. Introduction to the different forms of propagation. Botany as applied to propagation. Planting mediums. Demonstration: Working environment; Safety and tool use Practical: Planting medium mixes and mixing.
01/30/11	3	Lecture: Meristematic tissue and the principles of propagation by cuttings; Return to pages 92-113 Demonstration: Different kinds of cuttings Practical: Making cuttings
01/23/11	2	Lecture: General Propagation Methods and Application; Pages 47-113; pests and diseases and methodology to deal with them. Demonstration: Division of perennials Practical: Dividing perennial plants
02/06/11	7	Lecture: Biology of Grafting, reasons to graft and history; tools of the trade; SAFETY Demonstration: A saddle graft Practical: Grafting an apple or other stone fruit
02/12/11	6	Field Trip to California Rare Fruit Growers
02/13/11	9	Lecture: Advanced grafting and possibilities Demonstration: Whip Graft Practical: More grafting
02/27/11	8	Lecture: California Native Propagation Demonstration: Fire scarification of a California native Practical: Transplanting seedlings
03/06/11	4	Lecture: Seeds, structure, germination and viability, collection, storage. Propagation, pages 47-74; seed starting problems and their solution. Demonstration: Scarification/Seed sowing Practical: Sowing seeds of different sizes
03/20/11	10	Field Trip Lecture: Some of the odd-ducks of the propagation manual Katarina's presentation Demonstration: Leaf propagation Practical: Propagating something unusual.
03/27/11	11	Lecture: Covering all things left uncovered. Demonstration: As dictated by circumstances. Practical: Work on your checklist. (Student evaluation of instructor…) FINISHING REQUIREMENTS FOR CREDIT STUDENTS

We proved yesterday, weather will not stop us from meeting!  Good show for everyone who made it and got to such good work between the raindrops!

david

An Updated and Revised Syllabus

COURSE SYLLABUS

Instructor: David King

Email: greenteach@gmail.com

Phone: 

There are no prerequisites for this course, although some knowledge of basic botany would be extremely helpful. We meet on Sundays from January 09 through March 20/27 for 11 meetings. There are two Saturday field trips. 

 

The first scheduled ‘field trip’ we will attend the WLA chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers meeting on February 12^th, from 10:00 to noon. This is the day of their annual ‘Scion Exchange’ and is not to be missed if you can help it. There is no other forum in Los Angeles that offers a better introduction to grafting!

The currently unscheduled field trip will be to the Veteran's Administration Garden, run by Katarina Ericksen. She will show you her techniques, which are different from mine and will give us a tour of her greenhouses and growing grounds. We will endeavor to schedule this trip on a day that is free of all other field trips. To the best of our ability!

All other meetings are on Sunday 1:30 to 4:30 PM to The Learning Garden, at the Venice High School campus. This site is close to the ocean and because we meet outside, please dress appropriate to the weather, which is invariably colder than one would imagine. We will do what we can to mitigate the cold and rain, should it come, but the material of the class is best covered with live plant material in the garden – which, of course, is outside.

We will also be working with potting soils and cut plant material in almost every single class. Dress so that you can comfortably get dirty and still stay dry. Dressing in layers is probably the best idea when it comes to being outdoors at The Learning Garden.

Course Purpose

This course is an introduction to the principles and practice of plant propagation, both sexual and asexual, and the science and art of grafting and budding.

Course Objectives

1. Understand the care and safe use of tools in plant propagation.
2. Understand the biology of sexual and asexual propagation of plants.
3. Understand and use the different styles of propagation of plants.
4. Be able to set up and use a plant propagation system.
5. Demonstrate an understanding of the above by propagating different species of plants.
6. Understand the physiology of plants sufficiently to be able to successfully bud and graft a variety of plants.

Application

The materials presented in this course will enable the student to start plants from seeds and cuttings, in an amateur or professional setting and graft woody plants with a working understanding of the scientific underpinnings of the process.

Text for this course

Plant Propagation A to Z – Bryant; Firefly Books, 2003 It is readily available online or in the appropriate UCLA Bookstore. There will be many additional handouts from the instructor.

The Grafter's Handbook – Garner; Cassell Publishing 2003 This is a reissue of a classic first commissioned by the Royal Horticultural Society. This is a recommended text (not required) but a serious student will find this an oft-referenced text with a wealth of information.

All material for in class will be available online at http://lagardennotes.blogspot.com/. I try to not have handouts in class to avoid wasting paper printing out handouts you may not care to keep and using the internet allows us to use videos (especially of grafting) from other sites you may find helpful.

Class Meetings

To each class meeting, in addition to any note-taking tools you deem necessary (paper, camera, tape recorder etc), each student should bring propagation tools that will be described in our first class meeting. You will need pruners, a grafting knife, a regular pocket knife (or one knife with two blades for different purposes), a black, permanent Sharpie, a sharp pencil and a sturdy pair of gloves – leather preferred. If you are unsure of what to buy, buy NOTHING until after the first class meeting – we will not be using most of these items until later in the course.

Exam

Your grade in this class is based on a checklist you will keep. You need to be able to perform each of the tasks on the log with sufficient skill and understanding of the process in order to receive a passing grade in this course. The completed checklist must be turned in the last day of class unless other arrangements have been made before hand with the instructor. Additional points (i.e. make up points) can be obtained by adding propagation notes to www.gardenology.org. I reserve the right to administer quizzes throughout the course to insure comprehension. They will count in your participation score.

Instructor’s Office Hours

Please avail yourself of my willingness to meet with you at any time to discuss your progress in the course or to clarify instructional material or to answer any difficulties you are having. My preference is to meet with you at my office at The Learning Garden where we can cover material without distraction but I am willing to meet with students anytime, anywhere to assist you in learning; after all, that is the point your taking the class and my teaching it. It is my wish that all students learn and are profited by their enrollment in this course. Do not struggle; I am here to help.

At The Learning Garden:

 THE FIRST AID KIT IS LOCATED ON TOP OF THE refrigerator in my office

Remember its location.

I’m very serious... So far only one student has had to have emergency medical treatment. These are very SHARP knifes.

A garden is filled with uneven surfaces, rocks, plants with thorns and other armaments and an infinity of possibilities for injury; most of the time in this course we will be using very sharp tools which deserve your utmost attention at all times, please give due attention and consideration of this. Remain on pathways and do not walk into planted beds unless it is absolutely necessary. Do not pick anything without permission – it’s common courtesy.

A garden and the plants do not talk; I feel responsible as their spokesperson and take that responsibility seriously. You may not abuse my plants.

Food and drink are allowed, but the removal of any trash or waste is entirely incumbent on the eator and/or drinkor.

We will probably have hot tea and coffee to mitigate the cool weather we anticipate needing to endure. Bring your own cup or mug and any eating utensils you feel you need.

Appropriate clothing is essential. Remember, Venice can be hot and cold by turns. Layering is suggested; a jacket or sweater close at hand is essential. We will meet regardless of weather. If it is a light rain/mist, we will continue work. If it is a gully-washer (as though we get those in Southern California), we will meet in a classroom or the greenhouse and carry on.

Point Assignment

For Credit Students. It is more important to me that you learn the material above all other considerations. I will endeavor through point assignment, lecture and demonstration to teach you in a way that will facilitate learning the material. If you aren’t understanding, please allow me to help you.

Checklist	75%
Class Participation	25%
TOTAL	100.00%

Tools You Will Need

Each student shall provide:

Pair of pruners – secateur type, like Felco #2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12 or 13. No anvil pruners allowed EXCEPT for those students with hand pain or arthritis that must use the ratcheting type of pruners. Felcos can be bought on the internet (eBay) for much less than most local sources; I am also a Felco distributor and carry several models at a very competitive price. Coronas and other secateur pruners are OK, although if you have ever used Felcos, you appreciate why I am so fond of them.

Pruning knife – only used for plants. It is suggested that everyone also have a second knife for all the other needs in a garden. If one does not plan on doing a great deal of propagation needing a sharp knife, an inexpensive knife with break-away blades available from many local stores may be used. Grafting knives and horticultural knives are also found for reasonable amounts on eBay and other internet connections; I also have a selection of inexpensive pruning knives from Swiss Army. No one should feel pressured to buy my items – I only have them because they can be hard to find locally and often all you can find are the really expensive Felcos which you don't need.

Pair of gloves – leather is preferred.

Sharpie – fine point, only black will not wash off

Pencil – sharp, wooden (the Learning Garden does have a sharpener)

You will need to take notes, so paper is necessary – may I suggest you take notes in pencil because it won’t run if it gets wet and a pencil is a wonderful small dibber in a pinch.

The Garden (or instructor) will provide:

Cactus mix and potting soil to be used as needed

Watering devices

Pots

Root stimulating gel

Other tools and supplies as needed

Oil, sharpening devices, cleaners and rags for pruner and knife maintenance

Alcohol wipes and hand soap.

Plant material/seeds

First aid kit

Plant markers

If you forget your pruners or knife, I do have a few of each, and while I do have gloves, a pair that fits your hand is preferred (and a pair of gloves are somewhat personal too). I can sharpen your pruners and teach you how.

Date	Mtg.	TOPIC
01/09/11	1	Lecture: Introduction – roll, Extension policy, meeting time and place, attendance and tardiness, tools etc. Tool selection and care. Sexual and asexual propagation defined. Introduction to the different forms of propagation. Botany as applied to propagation. Planting mediums. Demonstration: Working environment; Safety and tool use Practical: Planting medium mixes and mixing.
01/30/11	3	Lecture: Meristematic tissue and the principles of propagation by cuttings; Return to pages 92-113 Demonstration: Different kinds of cuttings Practical: Making cuttings
01/23/11	2	Lecture: General Propagation Methods and Application; Pages 47-113; pests and diseases and methodology to deal with them. Demonstration: Division of perennials Practical: Dividing perennial plants
02/06/11	4	Lecture: Seeds, structure, germination and viability, collection, storage. Propagation, pages 47-74; seed starting problems and their solution. Demonstration: Scarification/Seed sowing Practical: Sowing seeds of different sizes
02/12/11	6	Field Trip to California Rare Fruit Growers
02/13/11	7	Lecture: Biology of Grafting, reasons to graft and history; tools of the trade; SAFETY Demonstration: A saddle graft Practical: Grafting an apple or other stone fruit
02/27/11	8	Lecture: California Native Propagation Demonstration: Fire scarification of a California native Practical: Transplanting seedlings
03/06/11	9	Lecture: Advanced grafting and possibilities Demonstration: Whip Graft Practical: More grafting
TBA	10	Field Trip Lecture: Some of the odd-ducks of the propagation manual Katarina's presentation Demonstration: Leaf propagation Practical: Propagating something unusual.
03/20/11	11	Lecture: Covering all things left uncovered. Demonstration: As dictated by circumstances. Practical: Work on your checklist. (Student evaluation of instructor…) FINISHING REQUIREMENTS FOR CREDIT STUDENTS

Our Class Meeting Locations 

The Learning Garden

13000 Venice Blvd.

Los Angeles, CA 90066

The Garden is located on the south east corner of Walgrove Avenue and Venice Blvd. It is the first gate on Walgrove south of Venice – there is a small amount of parking inside the gate, there is no other secured parking, other than those few spaces, you are on your own.

California Rare Fruit Growers, West Los Angeles Chapter

Scion Exchange meeting on Feb. 14, 10:00 AM,

Ken Edwards Community Center

1527 Fourth St., Santa Monica, CA, 90404

310.458.8300

The Veterans Administration Garden TBA

Tool Suppliers:

Search online at eBay and other buying services, but the following companies, in addition to myself, reliably have the tools you need and prices that are competitive.

A.M. Leonard (AKA The Gardeners Edge) www.gardenersedge.com They have everything and they make good house brands of knives and pruners.

The Felco Store, www.FelcoStore.com Felco products.

Frost Proof (good prices) www.frostproof.com Good prices – lousy website

Peaceful Valley Farm Supply www.groworganic.com Felco and Corona pruners, inexpensive Swiss Army grafting knives. A good choice.

Lee Valley Tools www.leevalley.com The only place I know to buy the composite handled Felco pruners, other than myself, and other lovely tools.

Walt Nicke Garden Talk www.gardentalk.com/ An expensive but old favorite seller, a lovely, quaint catalog (lousy website).

david

Plant Propagation for Gardeners: Syllabus

One style of pruning knife from A. M. Leonard - don't buy a knife until you've heard the requirements for the class!

Instructor: David King

Email: greenteach@gmail.com

Phone: 

There are no prerequisites for this course, although some knowledge of basic botany would be extremely helpful. We meet on Sundays from January 09 through March 20/27 for 11 meetings. There are two Saturday field trips.

The first scheduled ‘field trip’ we will attend the WLA chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers meeting on February 12^th, from 10:00 to noon. This is the day of their annual ‘Scion Exchange’ and is not to be missed if you can help it. There is no other forum in Los Angeles that offers a better introduction to grafting!

The currently unscheduled field trip will be to the Veteran's Administration Garden, run my Katarina Ericksen. She will show you her techniques, which are different from mine and will give us a tour of her greenhouses and growing grounds. We will endeavor to schedule this trip on a day that is free of all other field trips. To the best of our ability!

All other meetings are field trips on Sunday 1:30 to 4:30 PM to The Learning Garden, at the Venice High School campus. This site is close to the ocean and because we meet outside, please dress appropriate to the weather, which is invariably colder than one would imagine. We will do what we can to mitigate the cold and rain, should it come, but the material of the class is best covered with live plant material in the garden – which, of course, is outside.

We will also be working with potting soils and cut plant material in almost every single class. Dress so that you can comfortably get dirty and still stay dry. Dressing in layers is probably the best idea when it comes to being outdoors at The Learning Garden.

Course Purpose

This course is an introduction to the principles and practice of plant propagation, both sexual and asexual, and the science and art of grafting and budding.

Course Objectives

1. Understand the care and safe use of tools in plant propagation.
2. Understand the biology of sexual and asexual propagation of plants.
3. Understand and use the different styles of propagation of plants.
4. Be able to set up and use a plant propagation system.
5. Demonstrate an understanding of the above by propagating different species of plants.
6. Understand the physiology of plants sufficiently to be able to successfully bud and graft a variety of plants.

Application

The materials presented in this course will enable the student to start plants from seeds and cuttings, in an amateur or professional setting and graft woody plants with a working understanding of the scientific underpinnings of the process.

Text for this course

Plant Propagation A to Z – Bryant; Firefly Books, 2003 It is readily available online or in the appropriate UCLA Bookstore. There will be many additional handouts from the instructor. 

  The Grafter's Handbook  – Garner; Cassell Publishing 2003 This is a reissue of a classic first commissioned by the Royal Horticultural Society. This is a recommended text (not required) but a serious student will find this an oft-referenced text with a wealth of information.

All material for in class will be available online at http://lagardennotes.blogspot.com/. I try to not have handouts in class to avoid wasting paper printing out handouts you may not care to keep and using the internet allows us to use videos (especially of grafting) from other sites you may find helpful. 

 

Class Meetings

To each class meeting, in addition to any note-taking tools you deem necessary (paper, camera, tape recorder etc), each student should bring propagation tools that will be described in our first class meeting. You will need pruners, a grafting knife, a regular pocket knife (or one knife with two blades for different purposes), a black, permanent Sharpie, a sharp pencil and a sturdy pair of gloves – leather preferred. If you are unsure of what to buy, buy NOTHING until after the first class meeting – we will not be using most of these items until later in the course.

Exam

Your grade in this class is based on a checklist you will keep. You need to be able to perform each of the tasks on the log with sufficient skill and understanding of the process in order to receive a passing grade in this course. The completed checklist must be turned in the last day of class unless other arrangements have been made before hand with the instructor. Additional points (i.e. make up points) can be obtained by adding propagation notes to www.gardenology.org. I reserve the right to administer quizzes throughout the course to insure comprehension. They will count in your participation score.

Instructor’s Office Hours

Please avail yourself of my willingness to meet with you at any time to discuss your progress in the course or to clarify instructional material or to answer any difficulties you are having. My preference is to meet with you at my office at The Learning Garden where we can cover material without distraction but I am willing to meet with students anytime, anywhere to assist you in learning; after all, that is the point your taking the class and my teaching it. It is my wish that all students learn and are profited by their enrollment in this course. Do not struggle; I am here to help.

At The Learning Garden:

 THE FIRST AID KIT IS LOCATED ON TOP OF THE refrigerator in my office

Remember its location.

I’m very serious... So far only one student has had to have emergency medical treatment. These are very SHARP knifes.

A garden is filled with uneven surfaces, rocks, plants with thorns and other armaments and an infinity of possibilities for injury; most of the time in this course we will be using very sharp tools which deserve your utmost attention at all times, please give due attention and consideration of this. Remain on pathways and do not walk into planted beds unless it is absolutely necessary. Do not pick anything without permission – it’s common courtesy.

A garden and the plants do not talk; I feel responsible as their spokesperson and take that responsibility seriously. You may not abuse my plants.

Food and drink are allowed, but the removal of any trash or waste is entirely incumbent on the eator and/or drinkor.

We will probably have hot tea and coffee to mitigate the cool weather we anticipate needing to endure. Bring your own cup or mug and any eating utensils you feel you need.

Appropriate clothing is essential. Remember, Venice can be hot and cold by turns. Layering is suggested; a jacket or sweater close at hand is essential. We will meet regardless of weather. If it is a light rain/mist, we will continue work. If it is a gully-washer (as though we get those in Southern California), we will meet in a classroom or the greenhouse and carry on.

Point Assignment

For Credit Students. It is more important to me that you learn the material above all other considerations. I will endeavor through point assignment, lecture and demonstration to teach you in a way that will facilitate learning the material. If you aren’t understanding, please allow me to help you.

Checklist	75%
Class Participation	25%
TOTAL	100.00%

Tools You Will Need

Each student shall provide:

Pair of pruners – secateur type, like Felco #2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12 or 13. No anvil pruners allowed EXCEPT for those students with hand pain or arthritis that must use the ratcheting type of pruners. Felcos can be bought on the internet (eBay) for much less than most local sources; I am also a Felco distributor and carry several models at a very competitive price. Coronas and other secateur pruners are OK, although if you have ever used Felcos, you appreciate why I am so fond of them.

Pruning knife – only used for plants. It is suggested that everyone also have a second knife for all the other needs in a garden. If one does not plan on doing a great deal of propagation needing a sharp knife, an inexpensive knife with break-away blades available from many local stores may be used. Grafting knives and horticultural knives are also found for reasonable amounts on eBay and other internet connections; I also have a selection of inexpensive pruning knives from Swiss Army. No one should feel pressured to buy my items – I only have them because they can be hard to find locally and often all you can find are the really expensive Felcos which you don't need.

Pair of gloves – leather is preferred.

Sharpie – fine point, only black will not wash off

Pencil – sharp, wooden (the Learning Garden does have a sharpener)

You will need to take notes, so paper is necessary – may I suggest you take notes in pencil because it won’t run if it gets wet and a pencil is a wonderful small dibber in a pinch. 

The Garden (or instructor) will provide:

Cactus mix and potting soil to be used as needed

Watering devices

Pots

Root stimulating gel

Other tools and supplies as needed

Oil, sharpening devices, cleaners and rags for pruner and knife maintenance

Alcohol wipes and hand soap.

Plant material/seeds

First aid kit

Plant markers

If you forget your pruners or knife, I do have a few of each, and while I do have gloves, a pair that fits your hand is preferred (and a pair of gloves are somewhat personal too). I can sharpen your pruners and teach you how.

As Promised (Finally) Moraccan Spiced Chickpeas and Chard

Chard can be prepared in many different ways, and in this respect it closely resembles its cousin, spinach. One of the ways that chard shines is in braises and stews, so...

This dish might seem to have daunting ingredient list. But don’t be put off; enough of the ingredients will already be lurking in your kitchen. And, if you leave out any one of the spices, it will probably still turn out well. In contrast to some meat tagines, which take hours to prepare and cook, this dish can be made from start to finish on a weeknight. And the flavor is a lovely mélange of spices, slight sweetness from the raisins, and savory flavors from the chickpeas; don't go skimping on the spices or it won't have the same ultra-zing that is so lovely! Serve with rice or quinoa for hearty vegetarian dinner.

• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• ½ sweet onion, minced

• 1 teaspoon paprika (sweet or smoked according to preference)

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• ½ teaspoon turmeric

• ¼ teaspoon thyme

• ½ teaspoon salt

• ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

• ¼ cup golden raisins

• 1 tablespoon organic tomato paste

• 1 bunch chard (about 8 ounces) washed, center ribs removed, and chopped

• 1 cup cooked chickpeas plus 1 ¼ cups of their cooking liquid, or 1 can organic chickpeas with liquid plus ½ cup water

• 1 teaspoon hot sauce or ¼ teaspoon cayenne (optional)

Add the olive oil, onion, and garlic to a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or 3-4 quart pot, and turn the heat to medium. Allow to cook for about 5 minutes, then add the paprika, cumin, turmeric, thyme, salt, and cinnamon. Stir together and cook for a minute or two until fragrant. Add the remaining ingredients, cover, and turn the heat down to medium-low.

Stir every 3-5 minutes to ensure that the bottom does not burn and that your ingredients are evenly combined. You can add a tablespoon of rice flour if you like your stew thicker, although I've never needed it. Remove from the heat after 20 minutes. Enjoy!

Have a wonderful holiday season! I hope to see all of you soon in the coming year!

david

Notes for Today's Class

(Note:  Extension has made available the evaluation forms for this class.  Please do fill out these forms and let me and Extension know how you perceived the class and how you felt you learned (or didn't).  Please, with all this, suggest ways to make this class better - I read all these evaluations and often incorporated suggestions in future classes.  Please fill the forms out in an effort to improve this class and program.  Thank you  for your input!)

This is also THE very time to begin to think about fruit trees. I urge you to think about fruit trees for a while before making the dive because they are a big investment, not so much in money, but in time and patience. Once one has planted a fruit tree, some will take several years to come into full production – if you find the fruit unsatisfactory, or you have a variety that doesn't fruit well for you, all that time is wasted.

Gather as much data as you can in order to choose the tree that is right for you. Here are some sources you will find helpful – I suggest you go online and order the printed catalog because you'll want to cross check facts and types with each different nursery before you commit.

Trees of Antiquity, (http://www.treesofantiquity.com/index.php?main_page=index) is the place where we purchased most of our trees here in The Learning Garden. I found them extremely helpful and very knowledgeable. It was they who suggested Dorsett Golden as our apple here and it is truly one of the finds of a lifetime for our area.

Raintree Nursery, (http://www.raintreenursery.com/) invariably is where I place my ongoing orders for my propagation class (that starts in January) because I need rootstocks for the class, but their selection is lovely too and their catalog is worth a read.

My old standby, Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, (http://groworganic.com) is a great supplier of trees and fruit bushes, but their selection isn't nearly as complete and their catalog isn't a detailed as these others. Still, if you are already ordering something from Peaceful and they have the variety you want, you can't go wrong with them.

Dave Wilson Nursery (http://www.davewilson.com/br40/sales_catalog.html) has one of the most extensive websites around on fruit trees. It is really worth a good solid look, chock full of data.

The University of California has gotten in on the act with a website, The California Backyard Orchard (http://www.davewilson.com/br40/sales_catalog.html), that is a wonderful web site for a lot of answers about growing fruit trees in our climate. It also promotes the UC ANR publication, The Home Orchard which I recommend if someone is going to go into this head over heals – like I want to!

After looking through these catalogs, one might have narrowed their purchase down to a few trees. Once you get trees, these following sources are lovely to have in your library:

The Backyard Orchardist: A Complete Guide to Growing Fruit Trees in the Home Garden, Otto, Stella, © 1995 Ottographics This is the oldest book in this list and probably the smallest too, so it isn't as chock full of data as the other two, but then it would be the least expensive as well. Otto covers a lot more, obscure, fruits and so this is a book for the adventurous and those who don't want to spend a lot of money. It is a gem of a book and she does not intimidate the reader.

The Home Orchard, Ingels, C. et al, © 2007, University of California, Agriculture & Natural Resources One of the very best books for learning about the home orchard. Well written, easy to understand, good photos, this one has it all. No shortcuts, I like this book. It is available through the address above (and on sale as of this writing – which means a new edition might be on its way out – because of the sale, it is cheaper from ANR directly than it is from Amazon).

The Organic Apple Grower, Phillips, Michael, © 2005, Chelsea Green Publishing Although written for the New England area of the country, he introduces tools of the trade with a flair and his way of doing things IS organic. Might be one to check out from the library, but you will find plenty of good information and lots of lovely reading about organic apple production. (And his description of finding a flat-head apple borer makes my fulminations over slugs seem very, very tame.)

Some Fruit Varieties That Do Well Here:

Apples -

Dorsett Golden – as mentioned above, is our heavy cropper. It takes about 3 years to really settle in (although it will bear fruit, they are tiny for the first three or so years with full sized fruit beginning to show up in year three). We have Dorsett Golden on half size fruit stock and it's a fair sized critter.

Gala – we have this on a dwarf rootstock – she's about five feet tall at this point and not likely to get much larger. Lovely apples with crisp texture and that is what I prize in an apple.

Fuji – one of my all time favorites, but the one we have in the garden is a 500 chill hour plant and in three years I harvested one small apple. It WAS good, but it wasn't worth all that time. Sadly, ours will have to be replaced. (There are newer Fuji trees that have less chilling requirement and I may buy one of those.

If I had known better, I would have planted more varieties with a wider range of fruiting times to extend the harvest – as it is now, we get a ton of apples in late June/early July and then we are done for the year. Although, a quick look at the literature I have at hand shows that I have few apples to choose from that will fruit here at all.

Apricot -

Gold Kist – hands down, the best apricot I have ever eaten! A self-pollinated variety, this one tree stands out as the best fruit in our garden. While Royal Blenheim is the touted variety for our climate, I just love Gold Kist and have no desire to look beyond it.

Pear -

Seckle is usually the only one suggested for our area of the European pears. We have one, but it ended up in a neglected area and I've got nothing to report. Although, I don't think a ripe pear can be beat by much for shear hedonistic eating!

Figs -

Violettte de Bordeaux – is our tree that has been a champion for five years. It bore fruit the first year and it has not stopped since. A deep black skinned fruit, the flesh is a gorgeous red and has a smoky richness that is heavenly.

White Genoa – is an Italian variety that took forever to fruit. Once it finally put on a crop by which it could be judged, I began to appreciate its lighter and sweeter amber flesh. A really lovely fig.

Nectarine -

Double Delight – not to be confused with the rose of the same name, this is a yellow fleshed freestone nectarine, heavily bearing and needs a LOT of thinning – we almost lost several branches because it just over set fruit. I know Peaceful Valley calls it 'sensational' but I think that's a little over the top. It's good and with vanilla ice cream it's really good. But not 'sensational.' It is self-fertile.

Peaches -

Red Baron – this is one of our two peaches – this is a yellow freestone and a very good producer of large fruits. The other one is a clingstone and I like its flavor better, but I can't find the record on it and don't know which one it is. The importance of keeping good records, where you can find them is not to be overlooked. (I do have this all written down and saved in a computer file from 2003, but I can only find files back to 2005 right this second.)

Plums -

Santa Rosa – this is one of the thousands of plants that Luther Burbank created (he lived in Santa Rosa and gave us the Burbank potato, the Shasta Daisy among thousands of others), and I find this to be the best and most prolific producer of any tree in our gardens today. It makes a fabulous sorbet, delicious jam and fresh eating cannot be beat. There are several other plums that will do well in our region, but I haven't got past this one.