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Wednesday, February 15, 2017


Because of winter weather, for the first time in over 10 years, we will have to rearrange the order of our class and plan on finishing grafting after the first of the month - I do not yet have a delivery date for the rootstock we need for grafting.

Please note I will be redoing the syllabus today and tomorrow and expect to have a new order of business posted before class this weekend.  

Sorry for the inconvenience - but we will get this figured out.  We might have the chance to do a field trip to a grafted orchard in Malibu.  Do you, as the ones who will go on that field trip, have any thoughts about this?  It is a property owned by the man who demonstrated grafting to you on our field trip to California Rare Fruit Growers last week.

Saddle Graft

Saddle grafting is a relatively easy technique to learn and once mastered can be performed quite rapidly. The stock may be either field-grown or potted. Both rootstock and scion should be the same diameter. For best results, use saddle grafting on dormant stock in mid- to late winter. Stock should not be more than 1 inch in diameter.

Preparing the Stock

Using two opposing upward strokes of the grafting knife, sever the top from the rootstock. The resulting cut should resemble an inverted V, with the surface of the cuts ranging from 1/2 to 1 inch long.

Preparing the Scion

Now reverse the technique to prepare the base of the scion. These cuts on the rootstock and scion must be the same length and have the same slope so that a maximum amount of cambial tissue will make contact when the two halves are joined.

Inserting the Scion

Place the V-notched scion onto the saddle of the rootstock. If rootstock and scion are the same diameter, cambial alignment is easier; otherwise adjust as needed.

Securing the Graft

Wrap the graft securely to keep it in place, being certain it is well sealed from air by using wax or other materials.


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